Help me find a mystery part

Ladies and gentlemen, I've been looking for the part in the photo, but am coming up empty handed. It would be used to isolate my radiator from the chassis.

It's like a rubber grommet with two metal bushings (inserted in each side of the grommet) and a threaded screw through it.

They may be used for vibration reduction, or some other application. However, I've seen them used for radiators.

A link to the item, or an alternative would be appreciated. Not my photo, and I couldn't find any useful information related to it.
 

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If you're using it to isolate the radiator, just put some 1/8'' silicone (not rtv silicone, but silicone sheet) between the aluminum side tabs and the mounting tabs on the radiator. Then put somemore silicone underneath the rad (to kinda block air flow and give it something to rest on), and a nylon washer underneath the nut. Easy peasy.
 

Dimi Terleckyj

Lifetime Supporter
Hi Ben

I think if you check you will find these used in lots of models and brands to mount the motors for the windscreen wiper motors.

Dimi
 
Ben, We just installed a Ron Davis aluminum radiator, it is isolated from the frame with grommets. The instructions called for a ground strap between the radiator and frame to prevent eletrolysis in the radiator.
 
Read the electrolysis part about an electrical current to ground through the coolant rather than the engineered electrical circuit. A separate ground is my take on this, maybe I'm wrong. I was once back in June of 1966.


aluminum radiator technical information

Here is an old email I have directly from Bill. Says do not ground radiator.

Bill Williamson - Ron Davis Radiators wrote:

Great test, I wish all of my customers would do what you did, it would make my job easier. You will never get rid of all voltage, if you have any brass/copper in your system from freeze plugs to thermostat to temperature
sending units it will generate small voltages. As long as you are below .3 you should be fine. The only thing I would do is remove the ground strap from the radiator, we don't want it to be a good ground. All new cars the radiator is isolated from the frame for the same reason. If you have a problem it will attack other components which are much thicker than the radiator. One caution, do not use any additive except for Red Line Water Wetter.

Thank You,

Bill Williamson
Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc.
7334 North 108th Avenue
Glendale, AZ. 85307
Tel- 623-877-5000 Ext.16
Fax- 623-877-5001
www.rondavisradiators.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex M
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 12:07 PM
To: Bill Williamson - Ron Davis Radiators
Subject: Re: Question about RD radiator & electrolysis


Thanks for the response Bill - yea, my freeze plugs are probably brass(I didn't build the engine, but I can't think of why they'd be anything else), and my sendings units are brass (autometer) as well.

Out of curiousity, I am confused if the radiator should be totally isolated from the frame or not. Originally I had it totally isolated (using rubber washers/silicone/heater hose/etc...) whereever it made
contact. However, when I read your testing procedure it said the radiator should be grounded. When I read DeWitts material, they also say radiator should be grounded. When I called and talked to somebody at RD
(I forget whom), they also said radiator should be grounded as well.

However, in the past I've talked to people who say the radiator should not be grounded.

So I'm really confused about whether or not you want to ground it - it seems 70% of people out there say it should be grounded, 30% say it shouldn't.

-Alex


Bill Williamson - Ron Davis Radiators wrote: Here is my point of view, what ever it is worth. None of the original equipment manufacturers ground the radiator, they are all isolated. They spend millions/billions figuring this out, we want the radiator to be the worst ground in the vehicle so that it finds somewhere else to ground. So, isolate it and do not ground it.

Thank You,

Bill Williamson
Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc.
7334 North 108th Avenue
Glendale, AZ. 85307
Tel- 623-877-5000 Ext.16
Fax- 623-877-5001
www.rondavisradiators.com

If you reply, please include all previous messages so that we don't loose
the context. Thank you!

Technical Advice: If asked for technical advice, Ron Davis Racing Products endeavors to give each customer advice that represents our best judgment under the circumstances. Ron Davis Racing Products does not warrant this advice, nor does Ron Davis Racing Products warrant that its products are fit
for any particular purpose. Products are sold "AS IS" and used at customer's sole risk.
 
Talk about a disclaimer. "Products are sold "AS IS" and used at customer's sole risk." The Ron D site I gave you seems to give the opposite advice. Either way it's not their problem.
 
Talk about a disclaimer. "Products are sold "AS IS" and used at customer's sole risk." The Ron D site I gave you seems to give the opposite advice. Either way it's not their problem.

That's the fun of performance parts - you're f*k'd if they break, whether or not you're at fault :laugh:

However, to be fair, RD was good with warranty on my radiator - Gordon didn't design it properly (improper location of the bleed point) but they diagnosed the problem, made new rads, and gave me a new one for the cost of shipping.

I've isolated, and not grounded, my cobra's RD radiator and it's been fine for like 4yrs. No electrolysis or anything suspect to report, so I won't be grounding this rad.
 
Has anyone tried using a Zinc anode in their radiator? I used to change these things all the time in the boat. Its amazing how quickly they get eaten in a marine environment!

Zinc Anode Kit for aluminum radiators


Mike

My understanding is that if you have a problem with electrolysis (to the degree it will destroy your radiator), the anode will basically be like a hiccup to it - slow it down but unless you're checking it all the time and replacing it, it's a futile gesture (since most will set and forget it)
 
Thanks Jim. I'll go to the local Toyota stealership and see what I can come up with.

I've looked through the items at McMaster Carr, but didn't find anything that tripped my trigger. Thanks for the suggestion though.


Alex, what about the bolts that go through the chassis support and the tabs on the radiator?

Thanks Dimi. I'll also investigate wiper motor mounts. I appreciate the tip.

Al, I was hoping someone would open the door for the "To ground the radiator or not" debate. I see that there are two camps of thought on this topic.

From what I gather, the grommets provide two functions:
1. Shock vibration, especially to aluminum radiators, will destroy the core.
2. Isolation from the chassis.

Then there is the other camp that agrees with vibration control, but not with grounding.
 
Alex, what about the bolts that go through the chassis support and the tabs on the radiator?

I would just use nylon washers underneath the bolt head/nut and call it a day. You're never going to get rid of everything.
 
I've made them in the past with; 1/4" id tubing,5/16" fuel line, rubber gasket material, a couple of fender washers and 1/4- 20 bolts not threaded all the way
 

Jim Rosenthal

Supporter
In boats, the zinc anode, which is sacrificial, is attached to the part you want to protect. For example, since the shafts, props, rudders, and struts on my boat are underwater in brackish water (an electrolyte) I have zincs on the shafts and rudders, as well as a large zinc bolted to the transom and wired to the boat's bonding system- large copper conductors that connect all the underwater metal parts with the engines etc. That way, everything is protected from stray DC currents by the zinc anodes. I also have zincs in the seawater cooling circuits.

I don't know that you need to go to all this trouble in a car. You could put a zinc anode in the radiator, but keep in mind they degrade and the pieces of them that fall off will end up going around in the cooling system. I think changing the antifreeze yearly and putting in a rust inhibitor might be adequate.

Sorry it isn't sexy, AG. On the other hand, the boat IS sexy. It doesn't go as fast as the GT40, but the GT40 can't fish offshore etc etc. And it's vintage- 1971 36 Hatteras convertible. I wish their modern boats were as pretty as she is.
 
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