Jimglo trailers

My SPF MK1 should hit customs any day now in South Carolina, and while there are months ahead of her being ready to enjoy, it's time to start looking for a trailer in earnest.

Looking at the Jimglos and wondering if anyone has any experience with them. What do you like, what do you not like. What did you get that you wouldn't get again and what would you add if you were doing it all over.

Probably looking at a 20' length because it will only be hauling a GT40, Cobra Roadster, or Saleen foxbody.
 

Neil

Supporter
My SPF MK1 should hit customs any day now in South Carolina, and while there are months ahead of her being ready to enjoy, it's time to start looking for a trailer in earnest.

Looking at the Jimglos and wondering if anyone has any experience with them. What do you like, what do you not like. What did you get that you wouldn't get again and what would you add if you were doing it all over.

Probably looking at a 20' length because it will only be hauling a GT40, Cobra Roadster, or Saleen foxbody.
I have an 18 foot Jimglo tilt-bed aluminum trailer for my black Mirage. It tows easily and loads smoothly. I have the usual options- front box, built-in winch, electric brakes, etc. Since my car is low and has an unusually long nose overhang, I built two wood ramps to keep the nose from scraping on the trailer. A GT40 probably would not need anything like this. Its resale value is very high.
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Neil

Supporter
Note to my last post:

I have since changed the way I load my car on my trailer. I now load the car "backwards"; that is, rear end forward. This places the weight on the trailer forward, giving me more trailer tongue weight without having to roll the car so far forward as was necessary when the car's nose was forward on the trailer. Any mid-engine car should probably be loaded this way unless the trailer is very long.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Whatever you buy, be sure to buy a trailer that is big enough to fit a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette-size car. If you ever need to sell it you will be able to do so. Also, bigger isn't better IMHO. Bigger is heavier and the more it weighs the more tow truck you will need. I have a 22-foot slant nose enclosed and I can tow either of my cars, GT40, and SLC just fine with my F150 extra cab V8. I have been to California and back (Texas) as well as all over Texas.

I have one of these that they custom-built for me. I am very happy with it. You can really get it the way you want it but not pay for things you don't need. You can pick it up directly from the manufacturer when it is done in either Oregon, Texas, Indiana, or Georga.


 
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Neil

Supporter
Whatever you buy, be sure to buy a trailer that is big enough to fit a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette-size car. If you ever need to sell it you will be able to do so. Also, bigger isn't better IMHO. Bigger is heavier and the more it weighs the more tow truck you will need. I have a 22-foot slant nose enclosed and I can tow either of my cars, GT40, and SLC just fine with my F150 extra cab V8. I have been to California and back (Texas) as well as all over Texas.

I have one of these that they custom-built for me. I am very happy with it. You can really get it the way you want it but not pay for things you don't need. You can pick it up directly from the manufacturer when it is done in either Oregon, Texas, Indiana, or Georga.


Yes, you will need to consider your tow vehicle as well. I have a Dodge 5.9L Cummins Diesel pickup with an automatic transmission, two-wheel drive . It is really overkill but it has so much torque that I hardly know there is a trailer & car behind me. The other advantage of a diesel- particularly a Cummins-- is that your milage does not drop dramatically when towing a trailer. Overall, I get 21.4 mpg (town & highway) without a trailer and it drops about 4 mpg out on the freeway with a loaded trailer. Hills are NO problem.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
21 mpg ….
Is that in stock form or has it been deleted?
 

Neil

Supporter
21 mpg ….
Is that in stock form or has it been deleted?
Bone stock. No modifications except for the addition of a monitoring panel that displays turbo boost in PSI, transmission temperature in F, and exhaust gas temperature in F. This is a display only and it has no effect on engine operation. The Cummins in-line 6 cylinder 5.9L "common-rail" diesel is a really remarkable engine.
 

Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
Any mid-engine car should probably be loaded this way (rear end first) unless the trailer is very long.
[/QUOTE}

No question.
I towed my '81 DeLorean nose first ONE TIME...for about a mile on the freeway...didn't even get up to legal freeway speed before the tail started wagging the dog. 'Scared the stuffings out of me.
IMPO no mid-engine or rear-engine car should ever be towed nose first. 'Stern'-first only.
'Too easy to 'buy the farm' the other way.
 

Randy V

Moderator-Admin
Staff member
Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Bone stock. No modifications except for the addition of a monitoring panel that displays turbo boost in PSI, transmission temperature in F, and exhaust gas temperature in F. This is a display only and it has no effect on engine operation. The Cummins in-line 6 cylinder 5.9L "common-rail" diesel is a really remarkable engine.
What year?
I’ve had a couple of the 5.9‘s - great engines!
 

Neil

Supporter
What year?
I’ve had a couple of the 5.9‘s - great engines!
Mine is a 2004 Dodge 3500 (1 ton). It has 2-wheel drive and single rear wheels-not dualies. I have been very happy with it. I just had my a/c compressor replaced but it has been very reliable overall. I have about 200k miles on it now. One might think that an automatic transmission might be a disadvantage in a pickup but this is a very good one.
 
Whatever you buy, be sure to buy a trailer that is big enough to fit a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette-size car. If you ever need to sell it you will be able to do so. Also, bigger isn't better IMHO. Bigger is heavier and the more it weighs the more tow truck you will need. I have a 22-foot slant nose enclosed and I can tow either of my cars, GT40, and SLC just fine with my F150 extra cab V8. I have been to California and back (Texas) as well as all over Texas.

I have one of these that they custom-built for me. I am very happy with it. You can really get it the way you want it but not pay for things you don't need. You can pick it up directly from the manufacturer when it is done in either Oregon, Texas, Indiana, or Georga.



I had not considered that, thanks. I was leaning towards a 20’ trailer. I have loaded a Fox body mustang in my current 17’ servant express hardtop though.

how much spare room does the 22’ afford you for a corvette? Do you have cabinets/ benches up front?

which floor did you get?
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Mine is a slant nose so about three feet up in the front really doesn't accommodate the length of the car. However, I have a rollaway toolbox permanently secured to the floor and up on a stand so that the jack and jack stands can live under it on one side of the vee and a tire rack (four tires/full set) up on the wall of the other "V" with a large plywood box on the floor underneath it that holds all the tie down, tow straps, lawn chairs, etc. I mounted the wench to the floor between all that stuff so the front 3-4 feet of the trailer contains everything I need to take to the track with me. I should add that I also have another tire rack on the opposite wall from the one in the "V" up high alongside the car adjacent to the door of the car so that the car rolls in underneath it. So, I take two sets of spare tires with me to the track. One set of slicks and another set of street/rain tires.

I had the trailer built 6 inches shorter than a standard-height trailer so that its 6'6" onside instead of 7'. I'm sure that helps with drag and gas millage.

So I guess I am really using about 16 feet of the floor space to park the car in the trailer. When it's all loaded up I have about 3 feet of floor space behind the rear tires. Remembering I have a big wing hanging out of the back of the car. All in all, there is plenty of room in front of the nose and behind the rear of the car in the trailer to crawl around if I need to.

Gas cans (6) ride in the back of the truck.

Even with all that shit I got 13-14 MPG on the tow to and from Willowsprings California/ San Antonio Tx a few years ago. Not terrible considering I had to averaged 65-70mph most of the way.

So a 22-foot slant nose trailer is just right for me. looks like this picture (not mine)

Consider what you want to put into the trailer, measure it all, and then check the ACTUAL floor space footprint you are considering. Then buy accordingly.
 

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Whatever you buy, be sure to buy a trailer that is big enough to fit a Mustang, Camaro, or Corvette-size car

That's good advice. I have an open trailer (Brian James) I got nearly 30 years ago. It's a great trailer with a tilt bed and a GT40 fits on it (the doors clear the fenders). But soon after I got a Mustang, I discovered the Mustang is too wide.to fit.

And related advice for closed trailers, make sure you can open the car door once it's on the trailer. Some the fenders on some open trailers fold down to increase the clearance for doors. Some closed trailers have a hatch that you can open to make room for the driver's door (though in the US, that assumes LHD).
 
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