Mark Reid RCR-40 Build

I bleed the brakes and clutch today.

I found this set up on the Internet almost 10 years ago. You attach the air hose to a tire valve stem:

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Fill the master cylinder and bleeder tank half full of clean fluid, select the correct adapter for your master cylinder (mine are Wilwood and the kit includes one that screws right on), and clip the quick disconnect fitting to the fitting on top of the adapter (now temporary cap):

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Then adjust the regulator (you can see it on the black hose from the tire) to 10 to 15 lbs.

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Then open the bleeder until no more bubbles come out and you are done. I just finished bleeding my clutch and both master cylinders by myself in under an hour and the pedals are nice and firm. Well, that didn't include the 1/2 hour I spent chasing a leak only to find that I used an IF fitting in the clutch where a -3 AN was required!
 
I also installed the shifter, cables, evaporator, and dash:

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My coupe will be ready to come home after its traumatic experience next month and I want to simply swap it with the GT40 to get the body and paint work done. Ron figures it will take him about 6 weeks. I would love to be ready in time for Carlisle, but that may be a stretch. We will see...
 
Bill, I plan on taking the same approach you did. A piece of sheet metal bent and welded. Then covered, probably in leather, but I need to try a couple of options first. Any tips or suggestions?
 
I like that bleeding tool - really smart! It is otherwise allways that you have to involve someone else too do the job and preferrable someone that have done the pedal operating before. I will certainly look for such tool or make it myself!

Thanks for the tip!

Best regards
Henrik
 

Chuck

Supporter
Jonathan and Dean:

I also had a leak in that same location! Both sides to boot. Just cranked down those dang fittings a bit more and problem solved, but not before leaving a bit of brake fluid in the wrong place.

Chuck
 
I have a feeling you guys have not used the brass connector....as supplied in the kit..for that very location......

Chuck you must install the brass connector ...cranking down on the fitting will not work.....you will have a failure....the threads feel like they are a mating pair but they are not....one end has an inverted flare and the other a straight thread...the brass union has the female inverted flare and the correct straight thread on the male end....
 

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No, actually mine was a bonehead move on my part. I used an inverted flair fitting where I needed a -3 AN in the clutch line. Once I replaced it, all was good. No leaks in the brakes, but I learned my lesson several cars ago to crank down on the fittings for a leak free seal.
 
Mark,let me know if you need any help.Thanks for all the info and the 'guided tour' last weekend.Sorry if I slowed you down.Also,sent Fran the contract today-you were the deciding factor.
 
A.J. it was great meeting you. Glad I could help you spend your money. I enjoyed the conversation and it was a nice distraction from the build. You made a wise move in going with Fran. Good luck and I'll call you in a couple weeks for first start.
 

Chuck

Supporter
Hey Fran:

Yea I did use the right fitting. Just did not tighten it sufficiently. Once tightened, no problem. Thanks for the pointer, nontheless. All in all the brake system went together remarkably well.

Chuck
 
I figure first start and a quick ride in about 2 weeks. I still have the front dress on the engine left to go. I had to pull the water pump to replace the bypass and heater connections with AN fittings. Also, I should have my a/c bracket from Fran this week (I have to get a better picture, this one I noticed is really blurry).

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Fran's pipes were a perfect fit and they look great.

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This is still my favorite shot:

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Hi Mark,
in the last shot the 2nd aircleaner looks like a mirrorimage in the bulkhead window.
Are you sure you have two carbs ?:thumbsup:


Is the engine running already? If so lets hear it
TOM
 
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