Modifying Center Beam

[James]

Okay, So, I got brave and cut some metal this weekend. I'm at work right now, but will have pictures posted when I get back home.

I'm not a fan of how the shifter sits (too high), so I cut the center beam down a bit to fit the shifter assembly in. I've already modified the center console a bit.

Now, I know given that the chassis is incredibly stiff, and that the center beam/post doesn't provide a huge amount of rigidity, I'm pretty sure I could go with it as it is.... However,,, because I like to play at least a little bit on the side of caution I was thinking about re-enforcing it a bit. I have a couple of ideas, and maybe you guys here might have a few other ideas

Not all these options are mutually exclusive, and multiple options can but used.

1. Weld a beam (2"x6" T6061) parallel to the modified beam, effectively doubling the tube.

2. Weld up the "holes" in the cut out, so that it's a solid piece,, with only a hole for the shifter cable to pass through. Weld in small plates to "fill" the empty holes.

3. Bond CF plating to the inside (and maybe even the outside) of the center beam. 1/10th inch plate is probably many times stronger than the .125" T6 aluminum the center beam is made of.

4. Bolt in the shifter assembly so it is essentially a structural part of the beam. (it is actually a pretty stout piece)

5. Add a bracing "cap" that would go over the hole shifter assembly that would brace the two sides together, and run down the sides.


These are just some of the options I can think of to reinforce the missing AL. If you have any suggestions, LMK.

 

[James]

Or,, possibly cut out the center beam in it's entirety and replace it with (2) 3"x2" tubes, side by side.

 

[Will Campbell]

The center beam does indeed provide significant rigidity. The best thing is to consult an engineer- like Fran- and pay him to do a FEA on the chassis with your mods.

Absent that, I'd box in the hole for the shifter with welded .250 plate.

There is no room for doublers using more 2X6, with either console (the standard one, or the one with the tub, which is narrower still).

But boxing in the hole with .250 plate on all three sides (top, and both sides) would probably go a long way to making up some stiffness if you were unable or unwilling to actually do the FEA to be sure. Have you checked for clearance with your existing console to see how much room you have?

 

[Alex]

the shifter position sucks if left flat. angle it upwards 45*, then the beam height is fine.

 

[Mesa]

I would close off the cuts and call it good.

My shifter sits flat on top of what is (in effect) a 2 by 6 inch beam and I have no issue with the overall height. Although my shifter is a modified Ford GT and not the other one (which may be taller?) But saying that, even on the Ford shifter I cut the stalk so that the knob would be lower. Maybe that would help with your ergonomics?

 

[Will Campbell]

the shifter position sucks if left flat. angle it upwards 45*, then the beam height is fine.

Yes, I welded in a set of brackets to mount my Ford GT shifter (different from the Brandwood box, BTW) at the angle I thought was the most ergonomic. I could have made them bolt on instead of weld-on, but I have a welder, and I'm not afraid to use it!

 

[Alex]

edit: blah, nevermind

 

[Grant S]

you should at least weld a cap back in, it will help.

 

[James]

I do plan on at the very least capping off all the open ends of the hole. This weekend I will do some measurements to see how much room I have for reinforcement

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

It's a very important structural member ... None are there for decoration

 

[Howard Jones]

Here's what I did along with shorting the shift lever shaft..............You can't just take it out..........

 

[James]

Here's what I did along with shorting the shift lever shaft..............You can't just take it out..........

I like what you did with the center beam. Looks like it drops the whole thing about 2" in height.

 

[Cam]

I just bolted on 3" angle at an angle and called it a day. I agree with Alex, the shifter is much better angled back at you, than flat,. Then chop the gear shift lever about in half, die it 1/2-13 or whatever your geashift knob needs. Then grind a slot so you can tighten it with a flathead screwdriver.