new build a Porsche LMP
- Thread starter kaspa
- Start date
you may have to paste this to your browser, found this while looking around.
Porsche 906 Carrera replica in Argentina. Interesting...
VCR Vintage Racing Cars - Porsche 906 Replica
Porsche 906 Carrera replica in Argentina. Interesting...
VCR Vintage Racing Cars - Porsche 906 Replica
Especially
as for the rear of your car, how much toe are you talking about? less than a degree??? If its really small, you probably wont notice much especially when its toe-in. Having a little bit of toe-in on the rear is going to give you a more stability. If you think about the direction the wheels are pointing in a turn, you will see having rear toe-in will steer the rear of the car away from the turn... or.. 'keep the back end underneath you'. A lot of people actually set static negative toe on the rear.
Having toe out is just the opposite, the rear comes around much easier since its like having 4 wheel steering. It can also make you feel like the car is in a slide or drifting when its actually not which may throw off the driver.
There was a lot of experimenting back in the 80's and early 90's with rear steering systems for production cars. 2 cars that come mind are the old 300zx (fairlady z) and the 2nd gen rx-7 (FC3S). The 300xz actually had a rear rack system. The rx-7, a passive system that used deflection of rubber bushings. Both of these system made the cars feel strange and did not inspire confidence in drivers when raced; thus, most people removed them. I dont think any cars have had rear steering system since!
So dont get any fancy ideas!!! :thumbsup:
as for the rear of your car, how much toe are you talking about? less than a degree??? If its really small, you probably wont notice much especially when its toe-in. Having a little bit of toe-in on the rear is going to give you a more stability. If you think about the direction the wheels are pointing in a turn, you will see having rear toe-in will steer the rear of the car away from the turn... or.. 'keep the back end underneath you'. A lot of people actually set static negative toe on the rear.
Having toe out is just the opposite, the rear comes around much easier since its like having 4 wheel steering. It can also make you feel like the car is in a slide or drifting when its actually not which may throw off the driver.
There was a lot of experimenting back in the 80's and early 90's with rear steering systems for production cars. 2 cars that come mind are the old 300zx (fairlady z) and the 2nd gen rx-7 (FC3S). The 300xz actually had a rear rack system. The rx-7, a passive system that used deflection of rubber bushings. Both of these system made the cars feel strange and did not inspire confidence in drivers when raced; thus, most people removed them. I dont think any cars have had rear steering system since!
So dont get any fancy ideas!!! :thumbsup:
Howard Jones
Supporter
Hi, great build. I have a couple of questions about the front anti roll bar. This setup is what I am thinking on my SLC rear in the future. My guess work so far, and that is exactly what it is a huge guess, is that I need something like 50% of the spring rate in roll bar rate. If I run 600 lb springs in the rear I would be going for about 300 lb bar. Then I would want to adjust up or down 20% or so. Lets call it 250-350.
My question(s) are what kind of material are you using for the bar itself and what rate is it at full hard. Then how long and what diameter is it and how much do you expect it to twist. Also I really am not sure what I need to ask so any good stuff on your calculation/thinking would be really helpful.
Again I love these kind of builds. Great powertrain choice and really cool concept. With that much tire it ought to really have a huge amount of grip.
My question(s) are what kind of material are you using for the bar itself and what rate is it at full hard. Then how long and what diameter is it and how much do you expect it to twist. Also I really am not sure what I need to ask so any good stuff on your calculation/thinking would be really helpful.
Again I love these kind of builds. Great powertrain choice and really cool concept. With that much tire it ought to really have a huge amount of grip.
Attachments
Howard, the blade was machined out of a piece of 4140 and is 6mm thick and 84mm long, at full hard it would be solid, I did have it written down somewhere how much torque it took to move it on full soft, but I have no idea where that would be now. I no it wasn't excessive, that's about all I can help you with sorry.
cheers John
cheers John
Howard Jones
Supporter
Here's what I get when I put a 1 inch diameter bar 24 inchs long and using 6 inch arms, 325 lb/inch. Making the bar 20 inchs long yields about 470. My guess is you are around 16inchs long if that steering wheel is 12 inches in diameter by comparison, which would get you 730 ft/lbs at full hard.
DAVES CAR MATH: Anti Roll Bar calculation and comparison
DAVES CAR MATH: Anti Roll Bar calculation and comparison
Last edited:
Brian Wilson
Lifetime Supporter
Thanks Brian there is some really nice pics of 24 's out there if you look around,
I have the beast in the shop as we speak, just some routine maintenance and fit a new seat, plus try and get the driving position optimised for the owner, unfortunately he has very limited angle rotation so the only way to operate both clutch and brake is with leg extension, so the solution was a Tillet cart seat , and lift the steering column 80mm to give him some knee room, so I completely redesigned the front half of the chassis, was a big day but its done and what a difference, yeh I know should have done it right the first time, lets just call it fine tunning.
anyway the engineering side is done and dusted just have to modify the dash to fit and where done.
track day Thursday, so keep an eye out for a vid or two, if i'm really lucky I might get a drive, seeing as the last time it ran out of gas on the second lap. bugger
cheers John
I have the beast in the shop as we speak, just some routine maintenance and fit a new seat, plus try and get the driving position optimised for the owner, unfortunately he has very limited angle rotation so the only way to operate both clutch and brake is with leg extension, so the solution was a Tillet cart seat , and lift the steering column 80mm to give him some knee room, so I completely redesigned the front half of the chassis, was a big day but its done and what a difference, yeh I know should have done it right the first time, lets just call it fine tunning.
anyway the engineering side is done and dusted just have to modify the dash to fit and where done.
track day Thursday, so keep an eye out for a vid or two, if i'm really lucky I might get a drive, seeing as the last time it ran out of gas on the second lap. bugger
cheers John
John, please let me know if you still have for sale the plans to build the replica WSC Stanton subaru engine.
I hope your comments, thanks.
I hope your comments, thanks.
