Pros/Cons

[Charlie Farley]

Arvin,

I sent you an email. No answer.
I really think you need to do some research mate...
First you state ' Originality ' , in the next couple of posts
you mention painting an RCR chassis ' shark hide '.....
Puzzled here.
Btw, Fran makes a superb chassis, which, given research of photos
of original chassis, could easily be clad to look far more authentic.
All here are more than willing to chime in, for free, where we feel
we can help. You are not the first one to pose the question you have.
Though I would guess, many here have spent much time, only to see
someone disappear after much time has been spent by all, giving genuine
hard earned advice. I'm sure you know the score..
You have a vast Bible of information here.
Use it please without asking for ' one stop answers '
One clincher that springs to mind and has derailed so many
customer's choices.....in reality, are you over 6' 2' or a lard arse ?
English are blunt :laugh:

It's like in 1776,, British Foreign Office had to decide whether to continue fighting. A junior clerk rolled out a map of the world for the Secretary.
The Secretary enquired about a large area of the globe " What is this ?"
That is China replied the clerk,
The Secretary replied " Fuck it then, let them have independence, then when that Sleeping Dragon wakes up, they will be first in line !! " Tee Hee.
:idea:

 

[Ian Anderson]

You missed a couple of bits
Exhaust 2k
Ceramic coating 500
Tyres I think you are a bit light Avons on 15 inch rims £300 each in the UK and then you need to ship them. Either that or your tyres are not high enough speed rated!

Also at 600hp you are extremely limited on transaxle so and your budget is about a third of what would be needed to successfully handle that without blow ups - do some reading in the transaxle section

You may also spend a fair bit on CV and drive shafts

So limit the power to 400 and you are on the money and that will give you an extremely swift car and a lot easier on gearboxes!

Ian

 

[Arvin]

Arvin,

I sent you an email. No answer.
I really think you need to do some research mate...
First you state ' Originality ' , in the next couple of posts
you mention painting an RCR chassis ' shark hide '.....
Puzzled here.
Btw, Fran makes a superb chassis, which, given research of photos
of original chassis, could easily be clad to look far more authentic.
All here are more than willing to chime in, for free, where we feel
we can help. You are not the first one to pose the question you have.
Though I would guess, many here have spent much time, only to see
someone disappear after much time has been spent by all, giving genuine
hard earned advice. I'm sure you know the score..
You have a vast Bible of information here.
Use it please without asking for ' one stop answers '
One clincher that springs to mind and has derailed so many
customer's choices.....in reality, are you over 6' 2' or a lard arse ?
English are blunt :laugh:

It's like in 1776,, British Foreign Office had to decide whether to continue fighting. A junior clerk rolled out a map of the world for the Secretary.
The Secretary enquired about a large area of the globe " What is this ?"
That is China replied the clerk,
The Secretary replied " Fuck it then, let them have independence, then when that Sleeping Dragon wakes up, they will be first in line !! " Tee Hee.
:idea:

Thanks for your email. I guess what I mean about originality may not mean the same to others. I don't want something on a VW chassis. I want something that looks like the original but I am not going for a "restoration" or perfect match. Having said that I believe RCR, CAV, Superformance, tornado all meet that requirement.

I am looking for something that I can build - not just put the motor in. That I believe rules out the Superformance

I believe the original had an aluminum monocoque chassis - correct? If so that rules out Rornado and CAV.

That then narrows my choice to RCR which I believe to be a good choice. I like that they are in the US.

Shark hide is a liquid that is applied to aluminum. It chemically adheres to the aluminum providing a great protection against oxidation. It also does not change the coloration. That is why I would also consider a clear powdercoat

Everyone is correct that I need to study this whole thing - I just barely began. I definitely need help. Part of my frustration is that Factory Five (which I just built) has very good information (literature, DVD, actual instructions, etc) explaining the build process. They are also very open to what you get and EXACTLY what you need msd far I have not found anything like this for a GT which I find extremely frustrating.

So here is what I want. Old time looking engine - no modular, ls's, turbos, etc. I want a 351W bored and stroked to a 427, medium cam, fuel injection (I live in the mountains and don't want to worry about carbs). I would like to put the FAST Inglese stacks on. I want the Gulf Livery paint. Do I need the 2" or 4" flares??

What else do I need that does not come with the deluxe kit?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

I believe the original had an aluminum monocoque chassis - correct? If so that rules out Rornado and CAV.

FAV cars are pressed steel monocoques, not aluminum (save for some one-offs) so none other than Gelscoe, David, Brown and SPF are "as original". I would suggest you are looking for an original LOOKING car rather than an original "type" car. And CAV IS an alloy monocoque save for the early cars they built.

Don't write off the other brands due to the space frame construction, they can be made to look very convincing with proper attention.

 

[Jac Mac]

The only originals that had alloy chassis were the MKIV's and a few 'one of' subcontracted out to McLaren Racing. All others used a steel mono chassis.
So to simplify all MK1 & Mk 2 style had a steel mono, to get that at any where close to your budget an SPF is your only option, from there you have to go with RCR ( Alloy mono tub ) or CAV ( Steel or Stainless tubs ) or Tornado ( CF tub or semi space frame). However the RCR, CAV, & Tornado tubs are simplified in layout compared to the SPF & Originals.

Now I would question why you must bore & stroke to 427, a well built true 351 will make an easy /docile 450 HP and once everything is buttoned up look just the same and widen your choice of available transaxles and torque capabilities as well.
Pic attached of a genuine Mono vs a RCR, search for the others, then search search search before locking yourself into a decision. RCR on Left, SPF/Original on Right.

 

[Mike]

Do you care about resale ease and price Arvin?

 

[Scott Calabro]

Andy used to sell a steel mono several years back. Now it's three chassis types, steel space frame, alloy composite mono, and carbon fiber composite mono.

 

[Peter G-Pete Fritsche]

Well, one word on the 600 hp, unless you build the Gulf version (8 inch wider rear) and being able to put 315+ tires on - you cant get the 600 effective on the pavement.

 

[Randy V]

Speaking as someone who has built 6 FFR Cobras and most of a Type-65 Coupe with a friend - I can honestly tell you that a GT40 is not the next logical step up in complexity..

 

[Peter G-Pete Fritsche]

What would be the next step Randy?

 

[Dave]

Bill D's RCR GT40 is the best replica kit turned into a real looking 40 IMHO. I haven't seen a better rendition yet. I have seen some nice work and fancy buzz but Bill Dobbins 40 is still my fav build after all these years. when I close my eyes and dream of a home made 40 it's what I see ,shame all the pics are gone off his build page.
I guess my point is the RCR can be built into a very original looking car. But if you have a 100k then buy a Superformance. Simply pure original looking car for the coin.

 

[Arvin]

Do you care about resale ease and price Arvin?

No. I plan on keeping the car forever - same with the Cobra

 

[Arvin]

Well, one word on the 600 hp, unless you build the Gulf version (8 inch wider rear) and being able to put 315+ tires on - you cant get the 600 effective on the pavement.

I've got 525 in the Cobra and I want more in the Gt40. I don't want the power to always burn rubber. 600 is a lot but it also depends on how use use it. To me driving a car is not always treating the gas pedal like a on/off switch.

 

[Arvin]

Speaking as someone who has built 6 FFR Cobras and most of a Type-65 Coupe with a friend - I can honestly tell you that a GT40 is not the next logical step up in complexity..

I'm really not looking for complexity - I'm going after dreams. I've always wanted a Cobra, GT40, and a Daytona. When I build the Daytona it will also have 600 hp. My Cobra with 525 is fast but wish I had a bit more

 

[Randy V]

I'm really not looking for complexity - I'm going after dreams. I've always wanted a Cobra, GT40, and a Daytona. When I build the Daytona it will also have 600 hp. My Cobra with 525 is fast but wish I had a bit more

If you decide to build a GT40, you will get far more complexity than any Cobra replica.
Dreams are fine - that's why we are all here...
Reality is sometimes a bit more cold and harsh than you may anticipate.
Good luck in your quest! :thumbsup:

 

[Arvin]

If you decide to build a GT40, you will get far more complexity than any Cobra replica.
Dreams are fine - that's why we are all here...
Reality is sometimes a bit more cold and harsh than you may anticipate.
Good luck in your quest! :thumbsup:

Why do you say that Randy? I would like to know. What makes it difficult?

 

[John]

Arvin,
Read Randy's build logs.

 

[Jack Dunn]

My SPF GT40 mk 1 is similar to what you are considering, and I have a couple of suggestions/opinions which are based on my experience gained in ~5,000 miles of street use.

I ordered/built my car with RHD, a 438" Windsor making 630hp, an RBT GT40 specific ZF trans w right hand rod shift, and wide bodywork covering 14" wide rear rubber.

The RBT has worked flawlessly, however I don't track the car. For street use, the RBT is fantastic, and using the RH rod shift is one of the great pleasures of driving the car. Highly recommended.

If you are planning 600+ HP, use a dual disc clutch, and definitely go for the wide rear tires. You need them. And a good limited slip diff.

Just my opinions, good luck with your project.

Jack

 

[Scott]

Arvin, don't let anyone scare you away from a build. It's definitely not rocket science, just time consuming. With that said you will be dollars ahead buying a used car and making the adjustments you desire. Some of the chassis/bodywork/cars are lighter than others. Some are more"original." (From the outside they look very similar but there are differences)

Sounds like you want to build. Good luck and happy hunting! Keep asking questions and doing your research,S

 

[Arvin]

All good information - I appreciate everything. The people that know me know that when I am told something can't be done that to me means the correct answer just had not been found yet. I am a principle project manager designing and constructing mult-billion dollar nuclear reactors with a masters in mechanical engineering and a mba. When new engineers start working for me that are understandably overwhelmed. I explained to them that a nuclear reactor us no different than a simple plastic model that many of us put together when we were younger -and many of us still do. Look at it as one one hole at a time. How do parts interact with each other. If you have questions study it out. This forum is a great tool. Eventually those one holes and one bolts turn into a $8 billion nuclear reactor. Same with a car. I built my Cobra in about a year (about 600 hours). After my brief study o the GT40's so far I figure a year to two years. What I'm trying to say here is that I know this is going to be a challenge but I'm looking forward to it.