Randy's RCR40 MKI

[Randy Folsom]

Very nice. Are you using a rod shift linkage or cables? Your car is LHD?

My car is left hand drive (center shifter). Fran knows that I am using a Quaife, so hopefully whatever comes with the kit will work. Do you have a preference? I thought about getting a RHD with the right hand shifter, but I spent many years in South Wales and Japan so I am afraid that my muscle memory would have me driving down the wrong side of the road in a RHD car.

 

[Brian]

Funny story here.

My first time in Jamaica, the wifey and I were in the second row of some arbitrary japanese RHD (I didn't realize at the time) minivan.

The driver (I thought) asked if we wanted some beer for the ride, leaving Montego Bay airport. We said sure, gave him a $20 and he hopped out of the left front seat and started to run away. Then the van started creeping and rolling, making a left turn into what I thought was oncoming traffic. I leaped over the seat and shoved the shifter into park as I realized the driver was in the right seat and was making a perfectly legal and safe left on red.

We all had a good laugh and he told me relax and enjoy. I was in good hands.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I am told that my kit will be shipping soon. All that is left is to fabricate the track day cage and fit the +2 flares. Matt from Beacon is taking care of shipping ($1,600 to Austin). Hoping it will be on its way next week or the following week.

I have been diligently reviewing Tom’s and Chuck’s build logs. If there are other build logs that I should review, please let me know.

My month one plan of attack is:

1. Strip the chassis, debur it, and send it out for powder coating
2. Install the suspension
3. Fit the body and then set aside
4. Trial fit components to see what fits where
5. Sort out which mods I am going to do

Some mods under consideration are:

• Doubling the firewall
• Firewall wings
• Adjustable steering column
• Working NACA ducts
• Brake ducts
• Fuel cooler
• Review camera
• Electric parking brake
• Mufflers hidden in suitcase boxes combined with straight pipes and electronic cutout valves

 

[bryanf]

I would make the holes in the chassis for the hand brake cables before powder coating. I think it would look much better.

 

[David Garton]

I would make the holes in the chassis for the hand brake cables before powder coating. I think it would look much better.

Electric E-Brake means no cables.
Randy, Sounds like you have a great plan of attack.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Bryan, Thx for the guidance, but as noted in David’s comment, I am going to install an electric parking brake. I made my own setup for my FFR Mk3 Cobra, but it lacks the ability to automatically accommodate brake pad wear. So I might go ahead and spend 10x as much for an E-Stopp or similar.
But, to your point, I should probably move powder coating to after trial fitting components. That will require removing the suspension, but will allow me to cut out access panels. In any case, I will be getting color matched paint to touch up the bare spots.

David, Hoping you have gotten your Superformance on the road. I would love to hear that engine barreling down a long straight.

 

[Randy Folsom]

April 8th, 2024 was my first official build day. Up until now all I have been doing is research and spending money. Yesterday I actually assembled something.

Safir Clutch Package Assembly and Install

I purchased the ‘Complete Small Block 289/302 Clutch Package’ from Safir to mate the Prestige Motorsports 302/363 to a Quaife QBE62G.

The assembly went smoothly thanks to the guidance provided by Bob Wood. He made sure I received the right combination of parts to ensure compatibility and answered all my questions, usually responding the same day.

I like that the Safir clutch kit includes a compact geared reduction starter, external slave cylinder, upgraded fork, fork shaft and bearings. But the main advantage in my view is the reduced diameter flywheel and bell housing so that nothing hangs down below the bottom of the chassis. I opted for an external slave cylinder for ease of maintenance. I heard too many stories about leaking internal systems that can only be serviced by pulling the engine.

That the bell housing and flywheel have a smaller diameter also means that the starter is closer to the block so I don’t think I will need to cut a hole in the chassis.

However, the starter is also closer to the oil pan. I used caveman technology (hammer and dolly) to create a divot to provide clearance. I figured if I accidentally split the pan at the seam it was no real loss as the second option is to remove the pan and have a divot welded in. I shaped the divot slowly and kept checking for metal fatigue. After a bit of buffing it will look like it was built that way.

The fork, fork shaft, bearings, throw out bearing and slave cylinder went together without any issues. I did discover that the clearance cut into the bell housing for accessing the Allen bolt that holds the shaft lever is not big enough to fit a standard Allen wrench so I replaced the socket head bolt with a hex head.

I managed to install the flywheel and clutch only to realize that I forgot the bell housing plate. Fortunately, the Loctite had not set up.

The Safir clutch kit is nearly complete, but I did have to purchase flywheel bolts, bell housing bolts, transaxle bolts and starter bolts. I probably paid too much for all the ARP fasteners, but they do provide some peace of mind.

Now I just need a car to put it in. Hoping it will be here by the middle of the month.

Cheers,
Randy

 

[Chris Kouba]

Looks good Randy, but fitting that air filter under the rear window might be a little ambitious. Looks a little tall...

 

[Randy Folsom]

Looks good Randy, but fitting that air filter under the rear window might be a little ambitious. Looks a little tall...

Yes, that filter is probably going to be replaced with a 3 inch. I really want to get a Borla EFI ITB system.

 

[Jeff B.]

Now I just need a car to put it in. Hoping it will be here by the middle of the month.

I ordered my car the first week of March 2023, been told "a couple weeks" for a couple of months now and still waiting. I'd guess yours, if they build them in order of deposit, would be a couple of months after mine. An honest delivery time would go a long way in setting the expectation for buyers. I was originally told 8-10 months when I ordered it, which is why I chose RCR, could've been working on it it all winter. First week of May will mark 14 months.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I ordered my car the first week of March 2023, been told "a couple weeks" for a couple of months now and still waiting. I'd guess yours, if they build them in order of deposit, would be a couple of months after mine. An honest delivery time would go a long way in setting the expectation for buyers. I was originally told 8-10 months when I ordered it, which is why I chose RCR, could've been working on it it all winter. First week of May will mark 14 months.

I agree, setting realistic expectations would help. Unfortunately, it is not first come first serve because there are a lot of order variables such as including a track day roll cage, having RCR do some of the work such installing +2 flares, ordering non-standard parts, etc. And of course how good looking you are
Usually there are a bunch cars waiting for something like the steering rack which only gets manufactured once a year. If RCR runs out, then all the cars get backed up until the next production run.

 

[Ben P]

Yes sir,my Deluxe Kit was ordered 4/8/23.Have not even thought about it since .Dont want to get dissapointed or led on.It will get here when it gets here.I was told 7 months so I just went ahead and doubled that so its getting close to 14 months.

 

[Ben P]

I have not bought engine or anything else for the build as I figured it would be awhile getting here.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I have not bought engine or anything else for the build as I figured it would be awhile getting here.

Yeah, I made the mistake of thinking I needed to hurry and get an engine, clutch/bell housing and transaxle. They have been taking up space since August.

 

[Rod Chaffee]

I ordered 1st week of Feb 2023 & picked up my car this week. Give them time, it will come.

 

[Randy Folsom]

I ordered 1st week of Feb 2023 & picked up my car this week. Give them time, it will come.

Good things come to those that have patience. Unfortunately, I am in short supply
I feel about the same as I did midway between Thanksgiving and Christmas when I was eight. So close, yet so far away.

 

[Cameron Parsons]

Randy, curious. Did you find the bellhousing needed much dialing in?

 

[Lee Patterson]

Randy - regarding your build sequence, I don't think you can install the fuel tanks/cells with the front suspension installed. I know others have fallen prey to that and had to totally remove the front suspension. Others can confirm this.

 

[Randy Folsom]

Randy, curious. Did you find the bellhousing needed much dialing in?

I did not attempt to dial in the bell housing. I asked about that. It was indicated that unless there are concerns with the block’s dowel pins or if the car is to be a serious track car and/or a high RPM engine (flat plan crank) then not to worry about it. In my case, I have a brand new Dart block, running a max of 6,200 RPM and the track time will 20 minute stints a few times a year at COTA. Safir doesn’t seem to sell very many ec

Randy - regarding your build sequence, I don't think you can install the fuel tanks/cells with the front suspension installed. I know others have fallen prey to that and had to totally remove the front suspension. Others can confirm this.

thx for that guidance. I decided to save the installation of the suspension until much later in the build. The RCR build guide has it as the step after painting the bottom.

I am going to focus on the systems such as cooling, brake lines, fuel, etc. Then fitting the engine, pedals, steering, heat/AC, dash etc. I would like to get first start before I worry about the suspension or the body.

 

[Vinny P]

Randy - regarding your build sequence, I don't think you can install the fuel tanks/cells with the front suspension installed. I know others have fallen prey to that and had to totally remove the front suspension. Others can confirm this.

One of the first things I did was modify my gas tanks, bungs, brackets, etc. and installed them before working on the suspension. I believe you can remove the lower A arms, lift the uppers and slide the tank in if you assembled the front suspension before the tank.