SLC 24 Howard Jones

[Howard Jones]

Dash wiring complete. Total of 19 circuits leaving the dash panel. 5> than 10 amps and the rest less or sensor signals. I will probably use two connectors one for high current and the other for everything else. Connectors will be wired to terminal strips. This allows me to trouble shoot easily by probing circuits with the connectors attached and systems running.

Everything is on this panel except the main battery off switch and two warning lights. One for low oil pressure and the other for high water temp. They will be mounted on top of the dash directly in my vision along with the shift light.

All the high current loads are through relays, fans, lights, fuel pump, MSD, and starter/Ing on ckt. The blue thing is the flasher for the LED turn sig lights. No fuses, all circuit protection is through circuit breakers.

I overdid the wire sizes for the most part. Mostly 14 and 12 gauge on the dash except for the pigtails that were hard wired on the gauges.

Everything has a wire number on each end and all are documented as to use, source, and destination. I also have drawn a circuit diagram for the entire car, dash panel, lights, and pin outs of the terminal strips. This took longer that doing the wiring really but its all no use if it you can't figure out what you have 6 months later.

Now on to complete the main chassis harness(s), and then the front and real clip harnesses.........start it up............drive it..yahoooooooooooooooooooo!

 

[Garry 20 B]

Nice job on the dash, you have any pictures on how it fits in there?

 

[Howard Jones]

Garry, Post 618.

 

[Mesa]

"Tex" Jones living the dream

Shadow CanAm MkII, the only one in the world and there he is fixin to get his grubbies all over it. Originally 12 inch tall front rims and that was a step up from the 10 tall rims on the MK1. According to Peter Bryant (the designer) it was THE first roadracing car to ever wear non-treaded slick tires. That is a milemarker in roadracing history for sure.

 

[Jack]

Wow, nice Rob. Howard looks like he belongs in there too.

 

[Howard Jones]

Thanks for the pictures and introductions Rob, really nice hotrod people. By the way he has how many of those? F5000, and how many F1 Shadows?

Jack, ya well, that's gonna take a big fat lotto miracle. I'm not sure what I would do with it anyway. Pretty scary monster!

 

[Jack]

"that's gonna take a big fat lotto miracle."

I hear that!

 

[Howard Jones]

Getting closer! I now have the dash assembly wired into the chassis harness, all the accessories mounted and wired and harnesses complete to the front and rear clips.

Next I need to see if there is any smoke when I turn it all on and then try things like the fuel pump, fans, etc. The last picture is the documentation drafts. This is what takes time but it can't be done without it..

 

[Mesa]

Hey. I thought I saw a little smoke in one of those pictures....make sure you seal up that leak would ya?

 

[Howard Jones]

It all works...................now I can breathe. Very stressful to completely wire a car from scratch from my own design and put power to it. I have seen 100s thousands of dollars in parts and labor go up in smoke at work so don't think I didn't have dark visions..........but all is well. Everything works and no smoke!

I am going to do some other stuff beside wiring for awhile but I still need to build the front and rear clip harnesses, mount the lights and paint the body. I need to think about process a bit at this point.

Maybe I'll get the engine running................

Here's that last picture that I forgot.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Howard,
Don't kow if you have ever heard of this but you can get a 12 volt generator that puts out around 6amps or so. It is great for testing circuits. I used it on mine as I added a lot of stuff that was not stock stuff. Worked great and saved me from frying circuits. For the front lighting it would work, just dim lights when tested.

Bill

 

[Mesa]

There you go showing off your CAD, uh, PAD design skills again.
(Pencil Aided Design)

 

[Howard Jones]

Bill, because I a carious (means cheep bastard that is afraid to F things up) person I used a 20 gauge wire as a jumper from the battery + to the main power cable when I first tried it. The little wire will get hot and smoke long before anything important really get damaged.

I started on the throttle cable mounts today and finished the rear one.

 

[Mark]

Who's making your throttle cable for you Howard?

 

[Howard Jones]

These guys make ANYTHING to your specs. I recommend the "green" jacket low friction cable.

California Push-Pull, Inc.

 

[Howard Jones]

I made the brackets for the throttle cable. I like steel for things like this. Make it strong and never worry about it. I also used a old push pull cable, from some long forgotten boat I think, to mock it up for length and then I ordered a supper good one from California Push Pull. More on that when it arrives.

California Push-Pull, Inc.

 

[Howard Jones]

Throttle system complete. That green cable is really the best I have come across, Very low friction and is pretty good with standing up to heat. I have one in my GT40 that has been there for 10 years and still works fine.

This one here is 125 inches long, custom made, cost a 100 bucks, and came with one rod end. I had the other.

While I was down under the dash I made a panel from some left over .03 alum. to keep the passengers feet out of the peddles.

 

[Luke S]

Did you run any type of air horn or stubstack inside the air box? Is this a calculated air box or "just use all the space I'm afforded" box?

 

[Eric McClellan]

Lookin good Howard!

 

[Howard Jones]

Luke, I did some area calculations starting with the overall diameter of a Holley, 5 1/8 ",and gave everything a minimum of 25% larger in area. The height internally was made as big as possible. I also used a K&N calculator and came up with a minimum area airflow panel filter for a 350CI 6800RPM engine.

Best guess is this system would work up to about 400 CI @ 7K RPMs. Close but I think it will work. The engine calculator I used along with some pretty trusted advice, and a very similar engine model says I am going to be making about 575-600 crank hp.

Then once I knew I had enough room to work with I made it as big as I could using a filter that was in their catalog.

Interesting the choke point is the room in the firewall between the roll cage hoops. That spot is about 15% bigger than minimum. But the scoop and its tunnel is not sealed to the filter housing so that isn't really a factor. The inside of the box is tapered at the hole leading down into the carb inlet and the carb has no choke or air horn. No room for a more gradual ramp.

If I couldn't make that work I was going to go with a cone filter and a 6 inch inlet tube. That would have been much simpler but I don't like the look.