SPF Front Hub Seal Prototype

[Grady]

Does anyone have a readily available picture? I've measured the opening and I remember it is ~81mm across, but I need to check.

Molding can be done by compression or transfer. Suggest Nitrile (Buna-N), silicone, or EPT 60 durometer. All resistant to oil. I've got Viaton, but expensive to use. Devcon maybe too hard.

Nothing will take place until we get some measurements.

Grady

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Grady,

I have pictures on my box at home. i will post them with rough dimensions.

 

[Ron R.]

Updates anyone?

I've got wheelbearing issues, and figure I might as well kill two birds...

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Ron,

Never went any further with this. Not enough interest to cover the tooling costs. See Grady's use of the CapPlugs product and some RTV to seal the back. There was concern that there are no seals on the bearings but there are and the open hub center does not allow water to enter the bearings so it is not the issue some thought it would be.

 

[Ron R.]

Rick,

Thanks. I did some searching, and just didn't see anything. I may RTV in something just for personal peace of mind.

 

[Grady]

I used a plug made of 1" 2# char-ester (won't catch fire from flame) coated one one side with a film (IR applied) the makes it water and oil resistant. Dare I use the word oil proof.

I inserted the foam plug into the tunnel and flush with the bearing opening. I used the capplug and 'O' ring. I next applied a bead of the right stuff under the lip of the capplug and inserted into the back of the bearing opening on the upright. I used a 1# rubber mallet wedged between the back of the the coil spring to hold the cap flush in place while the stuff set up.

I used a spare upright (loaned) to check the fit and look at making a mold, but decided against the mold. To expensive for so few parts. The capplug works and several are out there among the cars.

I can mail you some foam plugs to insert into the tunnel. Just let me know your address. I was surprised how much grit is found in the cup area of the upright.

 

[Jim Cowden]

What would be wrong with a 1mm alloy sheet shaped to fit in the chamfered area leading into the cavity.
urathane it in,if you need to get in there cut the urathane clean it up and start again.

Sounds like you are making it more complex than it needs to be.

Jim

 

[Grady]

I don't have access to my pictures of the hub to show how the ~1" hole enters into the back of the casting. (at the coast of S Carolina) The 1" hole is deep into the side of the bearing ID of the casting. The Caplug is trimmed so that it will fit the curvature at the base of the ID where the bearing is seated. The 'o' ring helps hold the plug flush within the ID of the upright. Steve C doesn't use the ' o' ring but black silicon adhesive only and hasn't had a problem.
Dennis O, reminded me that the race cars had the hubs taken apart between races and the grit or dirt was removed. Hope this helps.

 

[Jim Cowden]

I did not mean you Grady ,you have a sollution.
I meant the mould making procces for a rubber plug didnt seem viable in earlier posts.
I should have explained better

Jim

 

[Seymour Snerd]

What would be wrong with a 1mm alloy sheet shaped to fit in the chamfered area leading into the cavity.
urathane it in,if you need to get in there cut the urathane clean it up and start again.

Nothing wrong with that. Or just duct tape it or use silicone. It is, after all, a race car. Heat vs adhesive is probably the only real problem.

 

[Mike S.]

With the new RTV sillicone rubber it's pretty easy to make intricate molds. I used to make carved Ivory pistol grips. Some of them I took molds from. Then used a pourable two part plastic resin. To make copies that looked pretty good. To make a "master" you could wax up & use some mold release inside the hub. Fill it with bondo (or simular) then take a mold from that to make plastic parts. I've done it a few times for one-off pieces I needed.
Mike S.

 

[Steve C]

Correction to Grady's email above.

Steve C (me) is using the "O" ring and a little silicone too.

Also the foam plug in the portion of the upright that contains the nut for the tie rod end

This approach Grady and I have used seals really well

Steve P2125

PS: See pics in the SPG Forum for P2125

 

[Mike]

I am using Grady's setup as well. I am looking for some hubcaps for the outside but until then have stuffed some closed cell foam inside the hubs to try and seal them. How about the inside of the rears? Any ideas?