Why not speak to an expert re the 427? Try Brent Lykins for example:
Phone: (502)759-1431
Email: [email protected]
Phone: (502)759-1431
Email: [email protected]
SPF GT40 MKII Ken Miles Livery Build
- Thread starter FirstTimeGT40
- Start date
It could also be a Colloti or a ZF with 5th disconnected. It does not sound like an FE to me and not many if any MK1's were retro fitted with an FE and/or used IDA's.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Just had a moment of looking at Prestige Motors and both their small block and FE 427's make around 500 horse and 500 torques in a streetable form that a Quaife or RBT ZF could deal with. Going that direction puts you $20k ish in a motor and 20k in a trans and both may live happily together for a while?
Rob Klein
Supporter
more pictures of this build would be awesome. Looks amazing
Rob Klein
Supporter
this is a Gelscoe race car, and the motor was done by Peter Knight. Most of them run the Warrior motors, but Peter will build what you want however I think he's on a two year build list.
Will do after arriving back home....
The same car was in some of the recent YT videos....
For some reason I didnt get any emails when these replies were posted and I assumed the thread didn’t get any responses since the last message. Only now when I was browsing the forum I realized bunch of responses were posted. I apologize for not replying sooner and I appreciate everyone’s thoroughness in trying to respond to me.
As things stand right now I am leaning towards a shelby 468 ci 550hp 427 FE with a quaife transaxle. I am strongly advised against dry sump as its not necessary for that motor and cost is quite high. Transmission cooler is something I will add however.
If I dont race this car, what kind of things braking can I expect? Is this modern aluminum shelby 468ci likely to also leak?
I am also told (I have multiple times) that this engine is rated to 7000 rpm and it will have no problem revving past 6500 rpm regularly.
As things stand right now I am leaning towards a shelby 468 ci 550hp 427 FE with a quaife transaxle. I am strongly advised against dry sump as its not necessary for that motor and cost is quite high. Transmission cooler is something I will add however.
If I dont race this car, what kind of things braking can I expect? Is this modern aluminum shelby 468ci likely to also leak?
I am also told (I have multiple times) that this engine is rated to 7000 rpm and it will have no problem revving past 6500 rpm regularly.
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Your requirement for Hydraulic Valve Lifters just knocked 500 RPM out of your 7,000 RPM Requirement. You might get a hydraulic lifter engine to 7,000 RPM once or twice, but you'll likely be repairing valve damage and a possible detonated engine.
I've built a couple of stroked Windsor engines and quite honestly, those engines had absolutely no idea that they didn't have FE Roots. One was 605HP in a Cobra and it literally scared the hell out of the owner so badly that he sold it before he crashed it.
The Sound you'll get out of a 180 degree exhaust will be glorious at higher RPMs - although some people say that it makes the V8 sound more like a V6 in normal street/highway RPMs.
If you insist on building an FE to pull 7,000 RPM, you should re-visit the drysump system as you're going to need a lot more volume of oil than you're going to get out of a wetsump system..
Your requirement for Hydraulic Valve Lifters just knocked 500 RPM out of your 7,000 RPM Requirement. You might get a hydraulic lifter engine to 7,000 RPM once or twice, but you'll likely be repairing valve damage and a possible detonated engine.
I've built a couple of stroked Windsor engines and quite honestly, those engines had absolutely no idea that they didn't have FE Roots. One was 605HP in a Cobra and it literally scared the hell out of the owner so badly that he sold it before he crashed it.
The Sound you'll get out of a 180 degree exhaust will be glorious at higher RPMs - although some people say that it makes the V8 sound more like a V6 in normal street/highway RPMs.
If you insist on building an FE to pull 7,000 RPM, you should re-visit the drysump system as you're going to need a lot more volume of oil than you're going to get out of a wetsump system..
Thank you Randy on both fronts. I have properly subscribed to the thread and I see what you are saying regarding the solid lifters. Interesting because I am being told that the engine as is already has stronger internals and doesn’t need modifications for higher rpm use. Can you recommend anyone that I can talk to regarding this?
It’s interesting that you’re being told that an engine built to your requirements and use case, would require no modifications.. Maybe I missed something along the line here..
Even the Side-Oiler 427 will need greater volume (not pressure) to keep the bearings cool at sustained high RPM use. The volume of the oil galleys is far greater than a street engine.
If you talk with most seasoned engine builders that work on BBF / FE engines and tell them you want to twist the engine to 7k, you’ll get an earful of custom steel crank, custom forged piston, titanium rods & valves, etc…. The dry sump system will be maybe 15% of what the engine costs would be and most engine builders will tell you that you’re walking on thin-ice without it.
Well, that’s my take on it anyway…
What are the expected "sustained high RPMs" you plan to see on today's streets and highways? Maybe over engineering it? Might talk to the cobra owners who run the 427FE engines.
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I cant understand why people are obsessed with having a 427, its reputation precedes it and time done it no favours with corrosion . People then boring it further have only increased its self demolition. Why not simply find a 390 or even earlier 332/352 versions and apply a bit of recent knowledge. For example: std cast cranks are cast iron with 2.75" mains, rods are a bit bigger than 351.Oiling cure is quite simple drill block gallieres and feed an external line from filter pad to rear as supplementary to factory. Dry sump it, Shaft rocker system makes it simple to just remove each Rocker Shaft as an assembly for winter layoff .Ford Nascar guys managed to get by with cast 4ma cranks at ~ 7/800hp before everyone discovered steel cranks & heavy blocks. I was just reminded recently about a 390 I bult 30 odd years ago, yep its still out there.
Randy Folsom
Supporter
Let me begin with I am no expert and you probably know this already, but accurate reproduction chassis are not available in kit form. That being the case, IMHO, it doesn’t really matter if the power train is an accurate reproduction if the core of the car isn’t. You might want to consider a tribute build which is a car that looks period correct, but built with modern components and making compromises with regards to safety, reliability, drivability and comfort.
You have probably already started pricing components, but maybe not. You can easily spend $50K on just the engine, clutch/flywheel/bell housing and transaxle. I decided to be a bit more conservative (relative term) with a 302/363 from Prestige, a Safir clutch package and a Quaife ZF. Just those components cost $35K. Still need to account for exhaust, cooling, ignition, fuel system, etc., easy another $5K. For all that, I am pretty sure 530HP of naturally aspirated goodness will provide for some awesome sound and more power than I can safely use. I am building my Cobra with a 351w/427 based on a Dart block. The RHS heads are not that good, so it ‘only’ produces about 500 HP. Bottom line is that a modern, well built stroked 302 or 351w will have a lot more power than Ken Miles had available and can still be driven comfortably on the street.
Thanks for that, I can relate to damn near everything there, still have a copy of Wilsons book and done similar stuff to cars Ive been involved with, If I ever get this T44 done I'll be able to add it to the list.
Rob Klein
Supporter
I think for a million dollars, I would want it more correct. I realize the MKII's there were only like 16 built and they were all different, but still I would want it like it ran in 1966.
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