I'm with Cliff on the point that standard bolt torques are to do with the bolt, rather than the kit it is inserted into. They are usually associated with attaining a % of yield stress in the bolt, but when it comes to a weaker female thread material the torque has to be de-rated to suit, or choose a weaker grade of bolt that will fail before the female thread. (rather have a broken bolt than a pulled thread right?).
In an engineering application where pressure containment is involved, such as cylinder heads, or for main bearings and rods, that have to contain a force, the selected bolt diameter, and grade, is all to do with the clamping pressure pre-load required to contain that internal pressure or force without lifting or separation. This is the situation where torque is critically important and torques need to be carefully established and adhered to. It is bolt tension load, not torque that is the desired end result and unfortunately there is the variability between the two that gives uncertainty in the result. Incidentally for larger studs 2" diameter or more on end covers for pumps, we are containing loads of several hundred tons, so use a hydraulic tensioner to pull the studs to the required pre-load, nip up the nut, then release the tensioner. The result is a known tensile load without a torque in sight.
For applications like manifolds, we don't generally need to worry about internal forces, only effective sealing and maybe vibration. In these cases I always use intuitive torque.
As far as aluminium goes, I am always on the side of extreme caution and on any case use high temp copper or moly anti-galling compound whether needed or not.
FWIW, I bought OEM bolts for a Mini flywheel, tried to tighten to recommended torque and felt a couple yield. I phoned Minisport who did racing builds, they said 'yeah that always happens, we now use 5 ft.lb less and don't have problems' the moral is never trust anything anyway.
Dave