Vintage Air Wiring and OAP50-1550

I have reviewed two wiring diagrams for the hook up of the Vintage Slimline system and compared them to the Vintage air diagram, but I need to have the forum review my question for detail confirmation.

1. IAW Vintage Air schematic for the trinary switch (PN 24678)<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>
a. 1 Black wire to the thermostat switch<o:p></o:p>
b. 1 Black wire to the AC compressor<o:p></o:p>
c. 1 Blue wire to ground<o:p></o:p>
d. 1 Blue wire to fan relay #86 (white wire). Fan relay #86 appears to be attached to an optional fan temp switch in the engine. The engine for the install is a GM LS3 with two operational temperature sensors (1 for the KOSO digital instrument sensor, the second for an analog temp sensor in the second head location (additional gauge).
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<I>QUESTION: What temperature is this circuit programmed for and do I connect the second blue wire from the trinary valve to the “white” wire (#86) coming out of the relay (seems to connect to optional temp sensor)? Can I connect the white wire to either temp sensors (aka KOSO or the analog gauge head sensor)?</I>
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2. Since this install is an LS engine, I installed the recommended heater control valve OAP50-1555. It only seems to need 12V to operate and is independent of the Vintage Air system.
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<I>QUESTION: Is the Vintage Air vacuum solenoid needed in addition to the OAP50-1550. </I>
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3. With the configuration of the unit using the OAP50 controlling flow of water heater fluid (without the Vintage Air Vacuum Solenoid), we now control of the flow to the heater with the OAP50-1550, so when heat is required, rotate the Vintage Air thermostat to hot and control cabin heat with the OAP flow dial. Inversely, when cabin cooling is needed, rotate the OAP controller to stop flow to the heater and control cabin coolness with the Vintage Air thermostat.
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<I>QUESTION: Does this make sense?</I>
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QUESTION: Where does ISIS get engine temperature to activate the radiator fans?
 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
All you get from ISIS for the A/C is power and fan control. ISIS gets the signal to turn the fans on from the GM ECU and/or the trinary switch. Make sure your ISIS harness has the inVert module installed to convert the 12V power from the GM ECU to a ground signal or you will fry the circuit in the ISIS control module (ask me how I know this :( )

When using the bypass heater valve, you don't need the valve that came with Vintage Air kit. I used the motor from the valve to make a defrost door to turn on/off air to the defrost vents.

The rotary switch that came with the Vintage Air kit is not real useful, as the only thing you actually use it for is turning the A/C on and off. I replaced it with a push button switch.

The bypass heater valve comes with it's own control knob and doesn't connect to the Vintage Air wiring at all.

The Vintage Air thermostat is really just to stop the condenser from freezing up. You set it as high as it will go without the condenser freezing and leave it there. With the A/C on, control temp with the heater valve.

I had a custom panel made up from https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/



 

PeteB

GT40s Supporter
Well, since my ISIS harness was missing the inVert modules is was supposed to have, I don't know what they look like.
 
Here is an invert module. This tiny circuit board was spliced into my ISIS harness. The ISIS control module only understands ground signals, so the invert module converts a +12v signal to a ground signal.
 

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For those of you building with a GM LS engine, here is what Infinity (formally ISIS, guess they were having problems with the no fly list) told me about the module. On your harness kit you will have the main harness that goes from the rear power cell to the front power cell. You will find a blue/yellow wire singled out from the main harness with a pin soldered onto its end. This wire is the fan signal wire from the GM Fuze box, to the infinity master cell. That pin IAW their instructions will be inserted into pin location 5 of the master cell connector. If you fell along that single wire sleeving, you will feel the invert module.

Infinity said that after about 2013, they included the module into all the SLC harnesses. Bottom line.......you need that inverter to keep from blowing a diode out in the master cell.

Infinity tech support is a good source of information. :thumbsup:
 
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