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Here's how it looked prior to breaking it down.

Moving along to the final phase of the project. Car is now almost completely apart and I'm tying up some loose ends before paint and reassembly. As I'm disassembling (and making the car exponentially larger) a good paint strategy is becoming necessary. I'm planning on shooting the chassis...

Yeah, was pretty certain of core shift in the coolant passages that was cut into when they hogged out the ports for the 225 CNC. What a waste of money using their product. Was $1880 in labor and parts and they are willing to cover $95. If I build an engine again from untested parts I won't...

I've been moving along and getting dangerously close to breaking the car down in preparation for paint and final build. I had an issue at the engine builder with the Dart Pro 225 CNC heads on the engine. There must have been a core shift when they made one (or both) of the heads that when...

Some updates. - Got the aircraft breakers and HVAC controls mounted in the panel under the dash. The spacing worked out well and I got 12 circuits, 4 hvac knobs and the fresh air vent pull for the passenger side in there. - The brake bias control bracket was more work than it looks as that...

Once again, I'm a big fan of a more complete mock up before starting the final build. So I wanted to finish the interior paneling and will therefore better understand wire routing and the circuit diagrams. I made 2 more molds for a center console over the parking brake and a drop area under...

Chardon, Ohio. It’s halfway between Cleveland and the PA line. It’s famously known for... nothing.

I'm on the path to wrapping up the mock up phase. I'm a fan of getting as reasonably close to 100% complete before breaking the car down for paint and final assembly. Mounting battery- I made a stainless and aluminum battery box to mount in the passenger footwell. I used an odyssey PC925...

Engine work is under way. I have Hutter Racing Engines in Chardon, Oh working on swapping some parts, installing the 8 stack and getting the engine up and running. I bought the engine built already. Never run, but built. It needed the pistons swapped to high compression from the turbo 9.0:1...

I wanted to add front inner fender liners. Usually these are aluminum and have secondary bolt on bake ducts. I wanted to make all of this as one. -Make molds from sheetmetal - Mold the inner panels in fiberglass - incorporate brake ducts that tie from inner front clamshell to flexible hoses...

Another thing I wanted to do was wire the car using breakers instead of a fuse box. I picked up some vintage NOS Lockheed Martin breakers made in '59-'60. I'm going to add these to a panel that bridged from where the center console goes under the dash to the bottom of the dash itself.

Some more progress mounting lights. I used the same housings used here http://www.gt40supercharged.com/gt40supercharged.html. It wasn't explained how the housings were mounted to the body. I made some stainless rings that mounted to the housing and used that to tie to some aluminum pieces...

The sway bars are standard speedway engineering parts. I wanted to keep them as off the shelf. Calculation for rates was done on an excel doc that I got from this forum somewhere. I think it was from tom’s build. The mounts I sourced from the nascar guys in NC. They were parts I picked up at a...

Seat mounting was next on the list. I wanted the rear to fold forward in the event I needed to pull the engine access panel. I added a second cross bar in the cage. This will be used to anchor the shoulder belts. I added some mounting tabs that have rubber bumpers and a feature for some 1/4"...

Had some time off for the holidays. With that, I had plans to do considerable work to the 40. What really happened was a Honda mini bike project for my son turned ugly and became a full restoration. After finishing that I bit into the car some. - Headlight mounting was done with a bonded...

I hope after seeing these kind of builds people understand the difference between building a kit/replica car and taking the project to the next level. This is beautiful work you are doing there.

Windshield wiper arm is supposed to be on the drivers side. Rcr cars come molded for fight hand drive config.

OK, new fenders are spliced in. Front of the car looks A LOT more muscular than it previously did. I don't think there is an alternative method to fit the widened gulf wheels with the Goodyear Bluestreak 6.00-15's on the RCR chassis. This fender flare should also accommodate the Hoosier DOT...

In solving the latch and striker install, I didn't have a lot of confidence the 1/8 thick firewall was going to provide good stability. Others have tied the striker back to the cage. I wanted mine to be removable just in case. Also, I pulled some flares off the molds I made. I took a stab at...

Almost forgot. I made a carriage for the door handle. The concept isn't original. I made mine from 304 stainless and bonded them to the inside of the door. It makes the handle movement feel great, very smooth.