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Alex, It’s great you are making all these posts. I never knew this was a potential thing to look out for. But now I know. Thanks!

If the round head doesn’t work they make very low profile shoulder bolts. This may not be the exact size you need but an example of another choice… https://www.mcmaster.com/90969a340/

Alex, try a round head bolt.

Next up is installing the door lock hardware. This post will cover installing the bear claws. I’ll be leveraging a number of approaches previously documented by other builders, but for the sake of completeness I wanted to document this in my build thread as well. Here is a short video on the...

AJ, thanks. I have some neodymium magnets I bought off ebay but they don’t seem close to being strong enough. Is there a particular size or spec you recommend?

Wondering how other builders have attached the optional door panels. I was thinking of epoxying nut plates to the inside of the doors and screw the panel on. Or use plastic Christmas tree fasteners through the door panel which secure into the door. I’d really like an invisible/hidden solution...

Alex, A few comments. The whole hinge can be moved rearward a bit so the front of the hinge protrudes less. Keep in mind those three holes and backing plate need to line up with body to secure it. So wherever that spot is, is where you want to mount the hinge(Fore-aft position). As Ken...

Rich, Bill at RCR can confirm. My guess is this is low carbon steel zinc or nickel plated. I asked what the rear engine mounts were made of a few years back and that was the answer. All these parts look like the same material.

Thanks Kyle, great idea.

The SLC front nose comes standard with a couple brackets with two quick release pins to secure the front clam to the splitter. It is simple, lightweight and effective. The only downside is that removing the front clam is a two person job. RCR now offers an optional tilt nose hinge kit. It is...

Happy New Year! Nice progress Alex. I noticed how you mounted the splitter supports. Here is a photo of another build Allan did. I think it is better to orient the tabs on the cross bar down like this…

You would want it long enough so the angle on compression and rebound is not too large. DSS makes them custom length, Ron who just replied can answer any question for sure. He specializes in transaxles and installed the drop gears in mine. That is also another issue, you will probably want a...

Keep in mind the V8 and V10 Graz have different flanges and Drive Shaft shop can supply the right adapters for the V10. I read somewhere that you can get a CV which mates up to the V10 flange but don’t remember who documented that,

https://driveshaftshop.com/ Tad Todmann is the axle guy there if you have any questions.

Building a Countach? If so, very cool project. I think your numbers are dead on, my engine is centered and the passenger axle is 3.5” shorter. Pic of the trans installed and the engine centered… Pic of axles and lengths…

For an LS, the engine can be centered. The front facing drive shaft is either cut, removed, or the oil pan/block trimmed slightly. That is the way we all use this Transaxle in SLCs and GT-Rs. One axle will be longer on the driver side.

Just an idea, as soon as a member becomes a paid supporter they can DM.

Alex, keep in mind the width of the metal ones are different so you will need some different width washers as well.

Alex, I have extra aluminum spacers. Let me know what size and how many you need.

This post covers the trimming and install of the optional air deflector. RCR provides an optional air deflector which directs hot radiator air out of the front compartment reducing heat soak into the front of the chassis. It also doubles as a wing adding front downforce at speed. My guess is...