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Nice work. I keep finding the second side/version is better than the first. There are a couple of times I've gone back and re-made the first one because of it!

Crimp is better if the wire is going to move at all. Soldering gives a better connection and less likely to suffer corrosion between wire and connector (equally likely in the middle of the block) but results in a hard section of wire that doesn't flex and can lead to breakages if there is...

Ah, I was looking to use an Audi RS4 clutch as it's just "bolt on" (to the gearbox end at least). Not a bad price at all with that work on the clutch, I was figuring on £500-600 (~800 to~950USD) for mine but that was with a stock off the shelf clutch rather than a modified performance one!

My that looks quite familiar. :) Looks like you're doing kind of the same as me (1UZ-FE mated to an 01E) and retaining the flexplate with the starter gear on and adding a flywheel after it. What clutch are you using? That flywheel looks tiny!

Assuming you're using std thinwall cable it's rated for ".. use at temperatures from -40°C to +105°C with excursions up to +120°C". 120°C is into serious overheating and if you're lagging the pipes then you shouldn't be seeing the same temp in the tunnel as the coolant anyway. I wouldn't worry...

Wow, 9 Months since my last update. :( Car has pretty much been on hold while we've done a loft conversion. Coming to the end now (although I still have a massive list of jobs to sort) and want to get some movement on the car again. So, while I've done nothing actually on the car itself...

Not true. Triangulation works because you have to have buckling of the beams for the form to deform. In the case of a square you only need the corners to deform. You can try it yourself. Take two pieces of card, fold one three times and tape the edges together to form a square. Then fold the...

As yet I haven't... Not too much of the tube "chassis" going to be exposed when I've finished panelling so probably in the door area. Probably also going to stamp it in a few places though.

On Youtube now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VXpRxXXSvU

Er hate to rain on your parade but this is what I was saying, the photos do not show the distributors on the front of the cams, or the inlet manifold, or the oil filter. You've also got problems with Lexus/Toyota not making a manual version so you'll need a custom flywheel. Still...

Someone hasn't read the OP!

The RV8 is not a bad engine but it's small and underpowered for most applications, there are a few larger/more powerful versions but they're still not exactly common. So you have to tune the engine to get the same base power as you'd get with an off the shelf engine from someone else. The TVR...

Or just buy a crate engine with the same power and a warranty for your ~4k. Lots of effort to get power out of a Rover V8, it's doable but cheaper to either start with a SBF/SBC and tune or buy a crate engine.

Its significantly wider than a SBF and longer at the top front as well (due to the distributors mounted on the front ends of the camshafts). I think you'd struggle tbh.

Is there actually a thread on that end section? Looks more like there should be a bearing on there.

I worried for a long time about driveshaft angles prematurely wearing CV joints until I realised that with the low mileage I'm likely to do that even if they see a fraction of their normal expected life they're still going to last for years. I mean most are going to be designed to last 120k+...

Fantastic! It's rare though to see something that makes a GT40 look tall. :)

Interesting as I'm intending on making mine nose down. How many degrees is your engine inclined by? It's only likely to be an issue on a long cruise as otherwise acceleration will soon oil the far end but of course on a long cruise is when you'll be using 6th...

I thought you couldn't flip the UN1 but google seems to prove me wrong. Flipping the UN1 What engine is it?

Are you running into gearbox clearance issues rather than engine clearance ones? Best is probably to go the inverted G50 route, As Andy says it's not safe to cut the chassis there. Look at the comparison of how low the input shaft is on a UN1 vs an inverted G50