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  1. J

    Sean's RCR GT40 build

    Do you have any more pictures of your front clam hinge mechanism?
  2. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Cut the diagonal bars off to cut down the front diagonals so the tow bar could be lowered. Everything seems a little more square now. Plenty of room around the bar with the condenser somewhat in place. I need to figure out how I’m going to attitude to the rad.
  3. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    For a straight pull around the track because of a mechanical, or winching into my trailer...with such a light car and 1/8" wall tubing, I'm not worried. For a harder pull, the tow strap could be slid to the corner where it wouldn't flex.
  4. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Put the front glam on to check a few things. The tow bar isn’t exactly in center of the rad opening. I’m not sure if this would cause problems if it ever had a tow strap hooked to it. I may cut some tack welds tomorrow and lower it. I may have to trim back the lower front corner of the frame as...
  5. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    I wish I would have bought this chop saw years ago! I ordered a set of OEM C5 sway bars off of eBay today….$205 shipped. I already have the end link conversion kit that Chris sent. I need to get the front sway bar in before I finish bracing the front. The rad will mount on a strap of 1/8” steel...
  6. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    It’s 1.25” square that is 0.12 thick I believe.
  7. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Trying to figure out the best way to brace the sides and bottom to make it as stiff as possible. I also plan on placing a bar at the top and bottom of the panel where the original rad mount panels were installed. This area is merely bent sheet metal. I would think the front sway bar would stress...
  8. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    The original AP hung beaks won’t work because they are hidden behind the brake cooling duct area. One could make their own with a shape that still incorporates the hint slot and extends beyond the front of the clam…but this cause other problems with clam articulation. I think I also figured out...
  9. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Some of the inspiration:
  10. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    The tow bar will be welded at the pass through points on the upright. It will extend towards the inner fenders on the clam and serve as the pivot point for the original AP slotted brackets that will be mounted to the clam. The clam will pivot at the inner fenders.
  11. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    ….the prototype. The tow bar goes through the upper diagonal bar extending down from the upper firewall frame.
  12. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    I’m thinking that I can reverse the original mounts that would be spaced out from the inner front fender area of the front clam…extending the tow bar and using it for the hinge hanger. BTW…the way these close out pieces were slapped in and installed is definitely not up to my standards. They...
  13. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    Lots of head scratching as I re-engineer the front rad support area. The side frame will look similar to what the factory cars had…only beefier. I’m looking at installing a tow bar and doing away with the cross bar blan hing that AP uses. I’m trying to figure out how I can incorporate a front...
  14. J

    Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

    What are you planning in using for the hinges for the front clam? Are you sourcing the hinges from somewhere, or are you gonna fab something up? I've been trying to figure out how to redesign the simple slot and bar design that AP uses.
  15. J

    Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

    Didn't the originals incorporate jacking plates and a tow bar into theirs?
  16. J

    Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

    I'm planning on doing the same thing with 1.25" square tubing. My radiator is temporarily mounted the the aluminum panel that AP puts on the car and hangs the front end from. Probably will try to incorporate tow hooks into it as well.
  17. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    You basically use the epoxy to bond the panels together? Did you then put a layer of fiberglass over the splices? I'm concerned about mapping through the eventual paint. Hopefully, this can be prevented by having the top layers of the modified areas as close to the parent material as possible.
  18. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    How did you deal with adding depth? Did you cut along the edge and then bend the floor down to the new depth?
  19. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    What is going to be the best way to rejoin all of the pieces? I have ideas, just wondering what everybody else has done in the past.
  20. J

    And so it begins...the AP build.

    I was told that I only hear would be required to get it back into shape, but it was off in so many dimensions, that nothing I did seemed to work. Even the length and width as it relates to the lip around the opening of the clam was off. The radiator opening was restricting a fair amount of the...
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