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I have thought of this very thing!

I’m going with the vintage looking Borla setup. The individual screens are over $500/set. I’m thinking I could make my own system that filters but also has a more “correct” look. I like the trumpet look. Not my motor, but the injection system I plan on using.

I prefer to pull into cars and coffee in my garage built, frame off, track and street ‘69 Firebird or ‘66 Fastback, rather than my ‘13 Boss 302 or ‘17 350R. Anybody can buy one of those. People are gonna literally crap their pants when I pull into cars and coffee with my straight piped GT40...

This thing is an enigma wrapped in a riddle. Working on installing new locating pins on the front clam. With both sides having the rocker corner and lower clam wheel well nearly even, and the spider roughed in, there is less than 3/16” variance between the sides when measuring the door opening...

What is everyone using for air cleaners or screens with their 8 stack systems?

Heat…lots of heat. Also back filled the foot of the clam and leveled the bottom in prep for installing locating pins.

What part number did you go with for the pan? I’m using an 997 trans and have seen where other guys have had to modify their pans for starter clearance. I’d like to avoid that if possible. And where did you source your valve covers…Tornado?

Wondering why you decided to not use the Aviaid oil pan?

I’m still scratching my head on this one. When the front of the area behind the front wheel is held flush with the top corner of the rocker, the rears do this. Any thoughts on how to attack this before I break out the body saw?

Next step is finalizing fitment in foam. I haven’t decided if I am going to cover the 1/2” foam, or use 1/4” plywood instead. Either way, I’m planning on waiting until spring for warmer temps to lay the fiberglass and resin. After talking to Chris, I started on the rear sway bar. I’m waiting on...

Aerocatch. There is some good info in this thread. https://www.gt40s.com/threads/clam-latches.57979/page-2#post-597098

Website is unchanged, except for the new address. I had heard that they were going to make some revisions to the chassis, but not sure. Chris Ardern is still easily contacted when I have questions.

Fabricating close-out panels for the front corners of the rear clam are going to be challenging. The plan is to make the panels out of 1/2” foam sandwiched between epoxy and 1708 cloth. The front of the wheel tub needs to be closed out and triangulated with the close-outs as well.

On to getting the clam latch housings and latches installed. Started with getting the latch mocked up and the lower tab mounted to the rocker top. Then got everything taped off with duct tape in preparation for applying some thickened epoxy. The upper pins are next on the list after I get some...

Deer season brings garage projects to a halt for a couple of months each fall. Been chipping away at getting the rockers squared away so that front and rear clam latches can be mocked up and installed. I started by drilling out the original rivnuts installed at AP and filled holes so that I can...

I'm on the fence as to if I am going to build my own headers, or just order a set from GP headers for a small block Ford. Do you have an idea on what you have invested in materials for your headers?

Next step is to get the spider mounted to the frame as I work my way forward. I wasn’t happy with the placement of the original bolts better limited adjustability for the clam seam. The riv nuts in the frame will have to be removed and welded shut so I can place the new spider bolts exactly...

I have a feeling I’ll be splitting the front lip on my spider to make it wider at the corners where it meets the door and clam, but before that, the clam hinge needs to be finalized. Step one: trim for clearance at the new rad support frame.

Did you use canned spray foam for your spider?

What thickness are your panels?