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1/4” plywood really isn’t that heavy… and no heavier then the pieces from AP that I intend to replace. I intend to completely cover the new pieces with fiberglass and resin. The original pieces weren’t fared in properly. I can see a lot of air gaps. Can you tell I’ve been watching a lot of boat...

I'm in the process of planning on how I am going to construct a new inner wheel tub and front corner structure of rear clam area for my AP build, as they only come with a 1/2 wheel tub and no front corner inner clam structure. Right now I'm thinking epoxy and or resin with a combo of 1708 and...

Could you measure the height of the spider lip in the corners by the doors? It looks like yours in Taller than mine in the corners. I'm thinking I may need to split the lip, raise it up, and refiberglass it.

This area has puzzled me since the car arrived. It was shipped with 1”spacers below the lip in the front corners of the spider to push it up. With the doors mounted in the general area where they will be (lower gap roughed in, style lines where it meets the clam matched up), the corner of the...

With AP bodies, the rear clam and spider have flex to them, so rockers will dictate their width. I think 66” is close to what RCR cars use.

Anyone know how wide a MK1 is supposed to be …side-to-side from edge of on rocker to the other? Getting ready to start drilling holes in the top of mine to get them fastened down. Currently, the want to be at 66 1/8”.

I plan on refinishing the underside of the clam with more CSM and/or 1708 before I mechanically strip the gel coat. Hopefully, that will prevent any holes developing after the gel coat is removed...and the clam will be beefed up. I see lots of dust in my future!

I’m not happy with the gel coat and have questions about what is beneath it. It’s all coming off this winter and will be repaired where needed and covered with epoxy primer for a base for bodywork. I was looking at the underside of the rear clam last night and can see spots where there is gel...

The locator pins came from RCR. I had to supply my own button head stainless bolt that goes into a riv nut in the frame. I tried to source something that would work from McMaster Carr, but couldn't find anything to my liking.

I’ve noticed this on a few hard edges. I bumped this with an air tool while modifying the front corners of the frunk because the pin receiver cups would fit. There seem to be voids between the gel coat and the fiberglass. Wondering how everyone handle this. I suspect it isn’t an uncommon...

What are you using for paneling?

I thought that it would be a good idea to get the rockers secured before I finalized the latches, since I want them to be nearly flush with the top of the rocker. The rear of the driver’s side was warped about a 1/4” inward, so out came the heat gun and clamps. The bottom of the driver’s side is...

Either these cars were slapped together originally…or my car was, the clam cutouts were off by an inch side to side. I’m gonna do my best to even them out, but you can’t see them both at the same time, so no one will be able to tell anyway! I may bend the mounting tab a little so that the clamp...

Man, it’s been a while. My hopes of having bodywork done and the car in primer by the end of summer went out the door a long time ago. However, the bugs are worked out of the fastback and it is ready for paint, and the new gauge package is now in the 69. I started working on getting the clam...

I noticed you are running a Holley retro 4150 throttle body. Have you ran the motor with it yet?

I've only seen them used to help fight pad knock-back with non-floating axles in cornering situations at the track.

Why is the use of residual pressure valves seem to be common with GT40 projects?

You are just using hood pins to secure the clams instead of latches?

I have Kirkey's in my '66 project and thinking about going that direction with my AP GT40. I'll modify the aluminum structure if needed and probably get them recovered with Alcantara.

335 on the back and 235 on the front.