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I’m pleased with how this turned out. Once it gets trimmed down evenly, it will cover the frame rail underneath.

Fortified epoxy and a layer of 1708. I’ll be able to trim down to 2 1/16” when I pull it off the mold.

What are your panel gaps set at? Those look great!

It looks like a 3rd grader trimmed and installed my rockers prior to shipping. The top edge was terribly uneven, too narrow, and warped in the rear clam-spider area. In order to widen the tops, I thought it would be best to remove the warpage so that the extended edge would be as flat as...

As delivered, the front clam locating pin would only be attached to the top of the rocker (1/8” of fiberglass). I decided to weld a mounting tab extension to the frame for a more ridged mount for the pin.

Fran at RCR explaining a few things that may apply.

2nd side always goes faster and better. The 2” angle iron is used to establish a flat level surface the same width as the eventual gap.

My OCD won’t tolerate this, so the rocker lip will be extended and flush with the frame. I’ll weld up the hole that AP used for the original locator pin. There may be a 1/16” close out panel in this area, like the one furnished for the door area over the gas tank. If I put them under the rocker...

I guess bodywork has officially started. The plastic locator pieces are fitting flush now, but the pins are still too proud of the rocket. The plastic has an 1/8 lip on it that I suspect is used to establish the seam gap. The lip on the stainless pin plus the riv nut are contributing to the gap...

Installing the rear clam locating pins has been more challenging than expected, but I shouldn’t be surprised. This bitch seems to want to fight every step of the way. I filled in the top with fortified epoxy to make it more ridged. Locating the front pin was interesting due to the vent. I had...

Where did you source the cooling plates for the front brakes from?

After weeks of head scratching and combing the internet for ideas…the front clam hing. The 3/4” nut will be welded to the 3/16” plate that will be in the backside of the headlight close out panel. The 2 steel plates will sandwich the panel and be bolted together. The 1” tube will be welded to...

It almost seems like the roll cage overall is very low. I have a similar setup in my AP and it sets high enough that they don't install the underside of the spider or the insides of the A-pillars. I have the pieces and plan to trim them up and install them at some point.

Any chance you have any pictures of your front clam hinge design?

Check this build out, if you haven't already. Might be a few tidbits of info in videos about this car.

Going to double check rear clam, and rockers before I permanently mount the front clam just to make sure everything is where it needs to be.

For those that thought I was just smearing resin around…I could probably nail a ground hog at the track and be just fine! Now I just have to figure out how to get it hinged and reinstalled.

Reinforced the epoxy bond with a layer of 1708 and more epoxy on each side.

See previous posts about the high density filler and eventually covering with 1708 mat.

Fill the bag with mixed epoxy. Cut a hole in the corner and squeeze out in a bead…like using a chaulking gun. Less mess when filling gaps, cracks, etc.