Search results

Zip clock bag trick I learned on a corvette YouTube video.

The close outs were trimmed and fitted. Initially, I epoxied them to the headlight. After they are set up, I’ll start to fill the gaps and fillet the edges of n preparation for some 1708 mat. I also noticed as I was fitting the panels and trying to get things symmetrical that the oval openings...

The body “problems” are similar to most other bodies that are available. If you want great even gaps, you’ll have to work for them. My single-opening hood was terrible as delivered. I tried heat, clamps, weights,etc to try to get the fiberglass to move to where I wanted it. I decided to cut it...

I took delivery in March of my roller. I went with AP because I plan to track it some, and if something happens at the track (or on the street) I could fix the frame myself, and pick up new control arms and suspension off the shelf. My body has been challenging, but nothing I can't handle. I...

Covered head to toe and still itching.

The way the headlight block offs were installed is unacceptable in my garage. Uneven, held in with 1 layer of mat, no fillet at edges, etc. I’m cutting them out and will fit and install properly with West Systems epoxy. Once this is done, I can fit the front clan to the new frame. There’s a AP...

Prestige was given instructions to build this 363 for my track/street fastback. I'm still breaking it in, but hope to have it on the track this summer. I had an estimate for a similar 8-stack build for my AP GT40 build....$29K!

Glad I lowered the tow bar while I had the chance. Time to get a plan together to mount-hinge the front clam. Then it’s on to the hood…that is currently in 4 pieces!

Bracing nearly completed. I may put another piece of round bar below the tow bar, but that depends on what I come up with for the clam hinge. I’m leaning towards something similar to what I’ve seen in what I believe are Tornado chassis. I plan on using an Optima battery up front and mount...

Simple solution to mounting the ac condenser. It’s held on with rivets on the backside. Rad unit set at 34 degrees with 3/15” between lowest point and what will be the floor of the front compartment. I can finish up bracing and then work on hinge design. I’m not gonna finish weld anything until...

I don’t think the rear will be as easy. I know the C5 front bar works on the back of this chassis, but has to be narrowed.

Have you figured out how you are going to mount the front clam yet?

By bars are OEM C5 ZO6/Z51 bars. I think my sweet spot will be around 7” .

Not sure what that means….but these should work:

Front sway bar centered up and mounted. Now the search for end links begins.

Great advice! More than likely, the cross bar will be a brace for the rad support more than anything. After I figure out how I’m going to hinge the front clam, I’ll weld on a tow hook receiver at each corner for a ZL1addons.com hook like I have on my 69 and 66 track cars. Then

When I was mocking up the radiator, I made sure that its lowest point sat above where the floor of the front compartment will be. I have a 4” wide radiator. To get it positioned where I wanted it, it sits at a 35 degree angle. Both of my outlets are on the bottom. They aren’t quite level, but...

Hi, my name is Joe and I tend to overthink and over engineer things. It bothered me that the front upper A-arms had only triangulated sheet metal for support. I wanted to clean and stiffen up the upper attachment for the rad support . Problem solved. I'll tie in the upper cross brace with the...

What did you use for your sway bar end links?

I had the same problem with my Prestige 363. I ended up using LS push-in AN adapters and ran 10AN hose to my catch can on my fastback. I like how yours are more low profile. I originally had 6AN hose Pictured), which Doug thought was too small. I ended up changing everything out for 10AN.