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Yes, the hood was that bad! Major surgery and heat required.

1”. I got mine from Summit.

After rebuilding the rear clam hinge, it moved very easily side to side. I set wheel lip to fender gap even side to side and installed a stainless collar in each side to hold it in place.

I've been doing some research and will be fabricating a front frame out of 1.25" square tubing coming off of the chassis to hang the radiator, bolt closeout panels to for the frunk, and maybe even attach hinges of some sort to do away with the cross bar of the original front clam hing.

Did you replace the rad closeout panels with heavier gauge paneling?

My radiator is at a 33.5 degree angle, but I think it isn't as tall as yours.

Good idea. I could probably heat the border of the insert better with it off of the clam, then place and clamp. I hit each side with heat and was able to concentrate it on the insert...for the most part and got the shape to change some. I also figured out that the lip on the clam opening is also...

I’m probably going to heat the perimeter of the hood to get there curvature closer, then cut and move the corners to get them set with a workable gap, then bond everything back into place and fill gaps with mat and resin. The hood simply isn’t long enough to fit over the lip on the clam opening...

I contacted Chris about it before I did any cutting. He recommended lots of heat to get the shape and fit to the top back to where it needs to be. My radiator is 4” thick and mounted as far forward as possible while still allowing space for the condenser (I believe I was sent the wrong one...

Yes, front clam is sitting correct on the front hinge and resting on the rocker at the rear. I think the hood is really warped. The curve is off, and it won’t even sit properly front to rear when it is pressed down. If the gap is correct at the front, the rear won’t slip over the lip in the...

The first cut is the deepest. Rad inlet-outlets are level and nothing will hang lower than the floor that will be added to the frunk. I’ll fab up the 1.5” square tube frame for the rad support one side at a time…with the current setup holding everything in place for mock up. Anyone have any...

I ordered these yesterday to place between the rad mounting plate and the car's closeout panel. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7VRSQX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Figured I would also use them for mounting then engine ECU and other sensitive components as well.

Is it necessary to isolate the radiator form the chassis with soft mounts to protect it from vibration. If so, what did you use?

When I start my doors, I'll establish the shape I want by applying filler to the spider and shaping it. Then apply fiberglass where needed (gap too wide) to the door edges and cut the door edges back based on the shape established by the spider. Similar to adding metal to a door or fender edge...

I've watched this video each time I've started bodywork on a new project. So far I've done a 69 street/track Firebird and a 66 Mustang with great results. I've got the back half of my AP GT40 gaped and nearly ready for bodywork...squaring away the front clam now. There are a lot of videos on...

Rad is where it needs to be. I used a piece of scrap as a spacer to allow for the AC condenser so there would be no interference with the hinge bar. The dashed line on the closeout panel was traced with the snorkel in place prior to mounting the rad. I plan to use 1/4” rubber spacers between the...

Removed the front end to start mocking up the radiator. First thing noticed was that it appears that the single opening extractor will need to be trimmed…or the radiator moved forward. I’m planning on framing in the front end with 1.5” square steel tubing, even before I realized that the...

I'll touch up things prior to finish welding and paint. I wanted to make sure everything worked as I wanted first.

You can see from the faint scribe line in one of the pictures of the hinge how far the body was moved.

I rebuilt the rear hinge because: 1. The clam needed to be moved forward. 2. It was too narrow and pulling in in the inner fenders. 3. The frame mounts looked like a 3rd grader made them. The tires are centered in each wheel well and the overhang over the tire is within a millimeter...