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I haven't tried these in the rear, and I'm glad they fit in your car, but I would caution builders to check clearances with their car before using a spacer, or a deeper ball joint (like the QA1) in the rear, as the clearance between the bolts, or the bottom of the joint can be very tight...

For my car, I used the Moog boots when I installed the QA1 joints in the front. The Moog boot design looked very good to me compared to the original boot (which differed from the one you pictured above). I just sandwiched them between the spacer and the control arm. They are a snug fit as you...

I wonder why our measurements differ slightly? Perhaps the joints were from a different batch, and this is acceptable variation? I'll update the wiki to reflect this new understanding- thanks Ken!

Your interior is really coming along. I like the integration, and approach to the seating. The aluminum work for the trim is a great touch, especially as it ties in with the work on the console. Thumbs up!

Not unless the load is greater than the capacity of a single or combined output. In most cars you don't need relays at all with the Infinitybox system.

There have been a lot of pics from the recent N24, but this video is one I really like. Glickenhaus on Vimeo

You were right, Bill. It was the 2011 national championship.

The DOT glass windshield has a flat surface in front to facilitate manufacturing. The polycarbonate one has the bubble, possible due to differences in the way it is manufactured.

I made them from a Toyota badge. Was driving one day and saw the Solara SLE, and realized you could just remove the spear in the "E" to make a "C".

Hi Ron, How are you handling the fact that the transaxle is reversed relative to the shifter as it would be in a regular Porsche? Won't the cable be pulling when you want it to be pushing? It seems to me you'd need to either reverse the shifter in the car, or make rockers that reversed...

I used a sort of hybrid arm. I selected an arm in black epoxy from the same people that made the motor, so it fit the motor stud perfectly, then attached the wiper blade end from a conventional auto-type wiper. That allowed me to select and use a regular auto-style wiper blade from a wide range...

I have a cover from a 96 Impala SS (!) that a friend gave me. I put it on the car for fun one day and it actually fit OK, so I take it with me on trips with the car if I think there is a chance it could rain. My car is a race tail with a factory high-mount wing. Pete- you may have seen it on...

That is such a great way to use 3D printing! Good work, Scott.

The GTM is a really hard car to build, with even pro builders like Shane taking 40 hours to do a door- and that is after many cars worth of experience. When you have recovered, maybe an easier build like the Superlite GT-R would be a better fit. It's among the easier cars to build of its type...

Looks like you are really taking the GT-R to a new level!