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Mike- can you share the GM part #? Thanks!

My car has been flat towed several times (is that a bad thing?? ) and here's what works best for me: 1. Use the lift kit to raise the nose up as far as possible. 2. From under the car, use a padded strap with d-rings on each end and loop it around a front control arm. 3. Run the flatbed's...

Those pictures are all three years old, and were shot while under the original owner's care. I wonder what the car looks like now, and why they didn't take current pictures? Also, the listing says 7 miles, which we know isn't true. Wonder why it is back on the block? Here's a link to the BJ...

For many people, it's about the build, not the drive. For others, the final product didn't match up to their vision, because of a lack of skill or resources, or taste. Some people want a race car for the street until they get one, and then realize that driving a thinly-disguised race car on...

Normally you would run a power wire to one terminal, the other one to the load, then to ground. Doesn't your switch have two terminals?

I have seals on the doors. But I am thinking of adding a second set on the body for better sealing. Some of my normal cars have triple seals, which helps make them quieter.

While at PRI this year, I came upon these guys from Finland. They had an inline 4-cylinder, 4-liter engine that was making 1500 HP. All billet and fancy. Here's a link. I'm sure it's very light, and will lighten your wallet as well...

Or save some money and try these.

I'm running Porterfield R4-S pads, of which Porterfield says: " The performance street pad, this pad offers the least dust and squeal of any of the street pads we carry. " I'm pretty happy with them, but I'm running them in the older Wilwood 6-piston calipers the early cars had, so it's not a...

Probably not with the usual V8 powertrain. Most all of them run 40/60 or thereabouts. I wonder what the TDi-powered SLC measured? That should have been closer to the mark.

Thanks- I've updated the wiki accordingly. Please PM me if you think it needs more info, or editing!

I chatted with them, and added a link to them in the wiki, along with a brief discussion on connectors and pigtails. Read all about it here. The good news is that they exist, and seem to have a wide range of parts. But they don't appear to be giving them away.

I have a supply of spacers for these and for the QA1 ball joints. There's a complete explanation of the ball joint story in the SLC wiki, here. Let me know if you need a set.

Apparently, the squeeze that Ford is placing on parts has been recognized by the aftermarket- you can buy, for example, Centric-branded clutch slave cylinders on eBay (from JC Whitney!). I expect more of the easily-reproduced parts to come available in time. Probably no hope for a new transaxle...

Looking good-- post up videos when it hits the track!

Any 2, 3, or 4-rotor will fit in an SLC. But the SLC doesn't use a T-56.

Since the transaxles (at least those from an existing car, which is where most of us got them, directly or indirectly) all have VINs engraved on them, it seems likely we could just use that VIN. Has anyone tried that, or been required to submit a VIN to buy a starter?

Thanks for the lesson- it's fascinating to learn about other cultures. But I still don't think that hat and girl would fit in the 40. :)

But that hat...

I have several spacers I got waterjetted for use with the QA1 balljoint. My spacers needed to be .250; if you need a set, PM me.