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That's a clever idea, Howard! The left side will need a strong bracket to be sure it doesn't pull up on impact. Another solution is to use button heads on the bottom (with washers, of course). That makes the minimum depth for an assembly.

It is taking a while to work with low-cost suppliers overseas. As soon as they are ready, they will be posted, and available. Please be patient. :)

I think you are looking for the Invert product from Infinitybox. Here's a link.

I put e-track on the trailer floor, and use straps like these. They work really well for low, tight-clearance cars like the SLC.

I checked with Fran, and according to him, the order is as stated in the manual, which is "... from the bottom, skirt, body, aluminum chassis extensions", with the body pulled a bit to stretch over the extensions. That makes the extensions the top part of the sandwich, and allows the two...

I mounted my battery in the front, and if I were doing it over again, I wouldn't. It's not clear that I actually improved the weight distribution in a significant way, and I'm sure there was an overall weight penalty, in addition to the extra cost associated with the long cable runs with really...

The diffuser bolts to the chassis. Mine is an older car, and I think the mounting method may have slightly changed over the years. Can you post a pic of your diffuser on the chassis where you think it should go? We might be able to better understand the issue you are having.

The tail does indeed pivot on the diffuser- at least mine does. The long aluminum pieces are bolted to the body under the tail lights, and these are attached to a bobbin which is bolted to the diffuser; the bolt holding the bobbin to the diffuser is the pivot point. Edit: the online manual...

The details are in the SLC wiki here. I have a supply of the aluminum spacers used to compensate for the longer stud in the QA1s (and some other ones) if anyone needs them.

The QA1s are more accurately described as "adjustable friction" as with their required tools, you can set the drag or friction level exactly where you want it. They are completely adjustable. They don't ship with boots or any hardware, but the boot from other joints fits fine. I'm running...

Great looking car. I see you like carbon, like me :). Based on a lot of cars using the LS crate engines and controllers, I don't think that will be a big problem to get working immediately.

The SLC wiki has a section on this, with part numbers. Here's a link.

I updated the manual to discuss the skirts. It's in the Body and Doors section. Thanks for the reminder!

Yes, just bolt or screw them to the chassis extension aluminum on the sides. Using nutserts makes it much easier to remove and replace.

Yes, you need to cut them lengthwise.

A modern Hemi-under-Glass, huh? Should be an interesting build. Try to take pictures and share them! :)

It appears you may have a wiring error. The bulkhead wire from "L" needs to have the resistor in series, but your picture looks like it is bridging the two wires.

Is that actually a resistor? Can you show the other side? It should have colored bands all the way around...

I haven't seen or heard of a fried Koso gauge yet, so the idea that there is a wiring issue rings true. The RPM signal from the engine is a square wave frequency-modulated signal, not a continuous voltage, so measuring with a DMM isn't as useful or clarifying as many people think. To be sure...

Need more pics, Grant!