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Finally got the maradyne fans installed. Drove it around a little and let it idle in the sun. Temps have seemed to remain constant. Only time will tell in traffic. I’ve read countless posts about the hot air being blasted onto The front wall and how it heats up the cabin. Everyone is 100%...

Looks great man, you’ve given me some inspiration To get the hot air out of this thing

We’ll battling overheating issues now. I guess I’m going to try some new maradyne fans and low temp thermostat too.

I just look at the instructions and I’m not seeing it. Maybe I’ll reach out to Allan.

Allan installed some actuator driven doors on my SLC, many builders have them. What’s driving me nuts is that I can’t put the key fob in my pocket without always hitting a button and the door opening. I’ve even accidentally it it while working on it and half way inside the door, nearly caused...

I know you have the car in front of you, but that won’t be a fun location for the tank. Maybe you already rerouted your gas fill hose. But between the fill hose, access to the belt, roll bar, it’s an incredibly tight location.

For mine I eliminated the knock sensors, relocated the oil pressure sensor to just above the oil filter. I would also consider replacing the cam retainer plate and “barbell” in back cover. I used regular block spray paint but I may give consideration to por15 now.

Could be wrong but I think the bodies are poly, cheaper easier to lay down and they might even spray it.

US Composites

Planning a similar build in the future, except I think I’m going to pony up the money and suck it up for a L92. Going with Holley gauges?

That’s a nice looking car. Curious what it will go for. I would think any reputable upholstery shop should be able to custom stitch that and glue it down. Been itching at the thought of selling my SLC and building a GT40

I wouldn’t worry about the wood or the rubber. Just straight on the jacks. Here is my SLC on them. My opinion, but you want as much surface contact as possible. Admittedly I don’t know what the underside of a GT40 looks like but I’m sure there’s plenty of flat spots.

Take the car apart, engine out. Front clam and rear clam removed. Bring it down to South Florida and it’ll sell quickly.

Actually interested in those, especially for the front lower joints. They will never be seen. Are those the exact size needed?

Haven’t had much time lately to dig into it and get the front greased, but will update with how the cerulean does.

Thanks man, I did this on one whole side so far and I think it has worked. I’ve neglected to do the lower front mounts which I think is a majority of the issue. I’m dreading getting down in the footwells to access those bolts.

After working on something else in the car today, I discovered my shift linkage was loose. I’m going to replace the 2nd gear detent and change the fluid. Hopefully this was the cause of my issues.

Front hinge was big on my to do list. Two 1/4 aluminum 3.5in pieces, used some 1.5in square tube to space off the frame. Expoxy spacers as the gap just wasn’t perfect. It works as it should, however the wheels have to be turned slightly or the wheel wells hit the tires. I also need to craft up...

I’m not familiar with how the RCR frame is set up, but when I do a GT40 build I’m planning 3/4 barb welded to the bottom of each tank, 3/4 equalizer line. With each having its own vent line. 3/4 line should be plenty for fueling. With all aluminum mono like RCR tho this may be difficult.

Little update, just finished up after rich posted. My big issue was the AC knob was not set to AC. I don’t have my knobs finalized yet so I was going off the instructions from vintage air, I was going two clicks on the knob when it should have been just 1 for AC. You can verify by checking to...