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Thanks, Joel, for your quick reply! I followed the charging instructions that Vintage Air provided and had a local shop (that specialized in hot rods and classics) hook it up to their system, which pulled a vacuum, ran a 10 minute leak test, then added the refrigerant and oil. It was a big...

Finally got the heat side of this unit working (bad potentiometer) and now can't get A/C to blow cold. Fan motor works correctly at all 3 speed settings but doesn't seem that the compressor every switches on. System was vacuumed, leak tested, and charged. The Vintage Air Mini Gen II has a...

Mike, thank you for that gem of information! That is exactly the sort of explanation I had been searching for unsuccessfully to demystify yet another facet of the IDA. It really is a miracle that someone came up with this device and so unlikely that it actually works! I called Pierce Manifolds...

Great point and well-heeded, Chris! I will do that for sure.

Great advice, Mike and Terry! I will do that first before tearing things apart. Won't have a chance to work on the car for a couple of weeks but will report back what I find!

Thanks, Terry and all! What's the best way to test whether I've got the stat in backwards and its forced open all the time -- without having to take the housing apart? Shouldn't I be able to feel the upper radiator hose (or radiator itself) as the car is warming up and it should be cold? There...

Gauge sensor is right by the distributor in the top of the water jacket. I'm wondering if I didn't stick the thermostat in backward. Can't recall paying attention to which end went in to the block...

I am slowly dialing in a set of 48IDA's having changed choke sizes, main jets, float heights, etc. It is 95% improved from where I started and one of the only lingering issues (other than the 6.5mpg fuel economy!) is a stutter/stumble on acceleration through about 3,500 rpm that feels more rich...

So I am reaching the point in the build where I am finally on the road and, having worked out an enormous amount of kinks, each drive is getting exponentially better than the last! I dare say this may even become "fun" soon at this rate! ;) To be fair, the vast majority of issues had to do with...

This is good to know! Too late for me but explains why I am not seeing any overflow into the recovery tank. Must have a "good system" then! ;) What I do observe is that the coolant temp seldom gets about 70C (158F). I have a 180 degree thermostat in there so it would seem it never even opens...

Got it! Schooled once again by the Forums! Thanks very much. Didn't realize the center section of the valve was hiding a second valve that opens inward. Great video. I ended up finding this diagram which clarified where the "vacuum" valve is:

Thanks, guys! I am missing something here. If you look at the radiator cap in the picture (standard Stant 13psi), it does indeed have the 2 rubber rings as Jac Mac describes. But the smaller diameter ring is so thick (see profile) that when plugging the filler neck, I would think it also...

Hmm. So does that mean that the radiator cap on the fill tank works in both directions? Meaning, at 13 psi positive pressure, it will open to let OUT the excess pressure in the cooling system. But under vacuum from below (as in your example with the 3/4 full fill tank that is cooling, it will...

Thanks, Joel, for the quick response! Here is the overflow tank I am using: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/80-201-aluminum-recovery-coolant-tank-universal-2-qt.html The description says the cap is vented and I can blow into the tube and get bubbles/flow although it takes some...

I am wondering if my Canton expansion/recovery tank setup is working properly. I am using a Canton 80-200 Fill Tank at the highest point in the cooling system and have the barbed fitting in the side plumbed to the bottom inlet of a Canton 80-201 Recovery tank placed down low alongside the ZF...

SOLVED! So, it turned out that this was entirely self-inflicted. :rolleyes: I had recently added a "Meter Match" device to help calibrate my Centroid fuel quantity senders to the Smiths fuel gauges. These require 12volt power and I simply piggybacked onto a key-on power line that was already...

Yes!

So now I have replaced the MSD6AL and Optima Battery and switched the Blaster 2 for an MSD 8252 coil which the MSD rep told me is the best street coil they make for the 6 series boxes. Still no spark. Will try Howard's troubleshooting procedure next. Key on gets me a continuous rapid blinking...

Battery is was about two years old and has been on a smart charger the whole time as I was still building the car. I’ve got a new one in there now but it didn’t make a difference. Could it be a bad alternator that is sucking the load soon as I turn the key on? I’ve also got driving lights that...

Thanks, JP! I followed the MSD troubleshooting guide and it showed the Blaster 2 had failed. Interestingly, another MSD rep I got on the phone told me to “stay away from the canister type coils”. Wondering why the hell even make them! It barely ran 10 times. I ordered the MSD 8252 blue coil...