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  1. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Rear window. I had been thinking a lot which route to take when mounting the rear window/vent. There are several ways to do it, but after measuring the thickness of both the lexan and the CF vent together it was clear to me. The thickness is the same as the distans between the body surface and...
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    CamT's build thread

    All very good Cam, including your craftsmanship. Impressive. But what happened with your canards? Are they deleted? Mine had a good fit with very little grinding. However, on one of them the fabric is laid in the wrong direction compared to the other 3
  3. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Joel, I’m planning to take the spider off at least one more time, when I do, I’ll make an accurate template and post it. It might be a couple of weeks before that happens though. If you are in a hurry, it’s quite easy to do without a template, just place the door fully open the way you want it...
  4. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    J-hinge and gasstrut. The template for the gas strut in the build manual is not correct. I think it`s for a 12" strut (as of Rumbles build log), mine is 15.5" (ball to ball) as delivered with the car. I ended up buying new ones anyway, 13.5" long and I had them filled to 610N, approximatly...
  5. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    There is a chance the fender vents will be damaged due to rocks being thrown up by the tires, so I made two molds just in case. I ran out of packing tape so I went to the local hardware store and picked up a new roll, it was a different brand that obviously didn`t like my release agent. The...
  6. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    I made hangers to the mufflers out of 1,5mm stainless steel, they are mounted to the rear clam hinge below the muffler. The clearance between the muffler and shifter cables was not to my likeing so I cut off the corner of the muffler. It will be welded when I get my new Tig welder delivered...
  7. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    The tail lights are also fabricated. I used my normal tecnique. Started with cutting out the holes then used tape and release agent on the lights and FG paste to fixate them in the cutouts. I mounted them on a aluminium angle to get them inline and straight. After that a couple of layers of FG...
  8. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Exterior door locks completed. I used the stock slotted push rod from the Miata lock and connected it to a small balljoint, that way the exterior handle will not move when the door is opened with the interior handle. I haven`t decided which interior handle to use so they will be mounted at a...
  9. Joystick

    CamT's build thread

    Very nice Cam, is it ok to have the camera mounted that far aft in the shell? How are you going to mount the shell? 3 tubes through the roof tunnel?
  10. Joystick

    polycarbonate spray paint

    Thanks for info Dave, I`m just about to start painting the lexan. There is a lot of info on the forum with regard to this and a summary would point to the Krylon Fusion being the best. I`m planning to use this, it says on the can "no sanding or priming" but I`m planning to scuff the edges.
  11. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    An easy and accurate way to mount the strike post. When the bearclaw is mounted take a 1/2" drillbit and insert it in the claw (closed), make sure it`s perpendicular to the bearclaw and turn it with your fingers just enough to make a mark in the gelcote. Then find a washer with 1/2" OD, measure...
  12. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Joel, The brand I use most of the time is Plastic Padding only because it’s the easiest for me to get,(the hardware store is only 10 minutes away). I don’t know the english name on it but i think it’s what you call ”kittenhair” , pretty much regular bondo with a lot of shopped glass fiber in it...
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    Scandinavian SL-C build

    As you can see I made a second access hole in the inner fenders, I was a little optimistic and thought I could reach the bolts to the splitter, but no way, so one more lid it is. After a lot of trimming I used Vuduglu to glue them to the clam, it`s a fast curing glue You can use for pretty much...
  14. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Spent today and yesterday completing the exhaust system. Right side is very tight, muffler to framerail and transmission is just 8-10mm at some areas. I have the Flowmaster DXB and they aren`t the smallest ones, but others have used them so I thought it`s doable. They are just tack welded for...
  15. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    One thing I’ve noticed when mounting the body, be careful how to mount it on the longitudinal axis. I read a lot of build threads before starting my own build and several suggested to push the spider forward until the rear cupholders hit the rear aluminium crossmember. This all looked good in...
  16. Joystick

    Mounting the Superlite emblems

    Does anyone know where to get the wheel center caps with the SL-C logo? I know I’ve seen it somewhere on this forum.
  17. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    Well Joel, this summer have been crazy hot even here in Sweden and my garage is the only place where I have air condition, so I’ve spent a lot of time there.:cool:
  18. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    I also made a mounting flange in the rear of the spider to mount a close out panel later on and to stiffen the spider somewhat. I did this with the spider mounted correctly. If not, I will risk the rear clam doesn’t fit perfectly, and who knows, maybe the front clam and windshield as well...
  19. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    I cut out the lids in the front inner fenders, not completely though, I left about 2mm in four places around the perimeter just enough to keep it in place then pressed filletine wax in the cut and taped up the lid on the back and some release agent. Then I fiberglassed a mounting flange on the...
  20. Joystick

    Scandinavian SL-C build

    The new Canards from Henry Nickless is in place as well. I made small "markers" out of M4 screws, put them in a pedestal drill and cut them with a high speed grinder at 45*, then inserted them in the canards and pressed them to the front clam to get a mark where to drill the holes. The fit was...
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