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I am not suggesting it, but I have shortened bolts like above without any rusting problems. the Grade 8 stuff is pretty hard and doesn't easily rust. Fran makes a good point, watch the shank length. I've used longer bolts to make the shank exit the nut side then installed washers to cover...

So it appears there is only one inlet? And the diffuser must be submerged in the tank?

I would stay off the pressure side with your header tank. My experience, from your diagram you will be pulling coolant through the header tank from the pressure side to the suction side and putting pressure on the cap from the waterpump and heat expansion both. i would run your #1 bleed...

I'm curious, why are people not using aluminum tubing with the blue silicon connectors which can be found in 90 & 45 and maybe 30 degree bends? Okay, maybe not the 30's. I've had these guys make some stuff. http://www.hrpworld.com/store/default/cooling-system/coolant-hoses-tubes-fittings.html

I wondered about that too. If I remember right, the hole in the bottom funnels up reducing as it goes to a smaller diameter, which I don't remember the size of. In the bottom there is a foam piece. So the air enters and hits the cone or not, then has to rise to enter the funnel where it exits...

And somebody is going to say, Oh my gosh, look at that torque band, they don't have to shift so many times. But if you will look at the HP curve compared to the TQ curve, the HP curve follows the TQ curve and probably extends beyond by a noticeable degree, so you could say, oh my gosh, look at...

It's all about HP, torque is only a graph of the potential, HP is the calculation used in 'time'. Just because the two graphs cross and TQ is used to compute HP someone decided to put the two together.

Here's a good gear calculator, you can see what the gear drop is also, kind of long in the rpm range. John Maher Racing » GEAR RATIO CALCULATOR

Re the Dailey Eng system, I'm using one on a SBF. It will pull a lot of vacuum, which means there will be a lot of air expelled out somewhere, you can hope the breather. The problem one can encounter is the oil mist. I got around this by using a bottom breathing breather and then routing...

I would do the CC in a heartbeat if I had the change and it was available, matter of fact I did consider it for a Ford based pattern but my rims weren't big enough. Why are you guys comparing the prices of Ferrari and Porsche with GM, are they comparable, retail to retail and used to used...

lol don't try to start the bbqer with ether, been there done that.

1a. If you are hit with an incendiary round you are less likely to flambe. More about the diesel?

Don't leave the tape on the lexan for extended period of time, the adhesive can embed into the lexan and you will not get it out, even the painters tape. I know someone who had to have a complete windshield replaced because of this!

I had a 35 gpm electric csr pump on a 406, worked fine on the street, from my experience you wouldn't want one on a road course. Stewart water pump site has a lot of good information.

Not a GT40, but on a cobra replica i have tried 160, 180 and 195. And have settled on the 180 as best for my purposes. Oil temps usually follow the engine coolant temp unless running hard btw.

Roadtrip!!!!!

I found on my cv boots, zip ties in the recesses keeps them from billowing and possibly longer life. Also, the small tubes used on aerosol cans to pin point the spray pattern cut to length and placed between the axle and boot and then zip tied allows them to breath, curiously, haven't had any...

i'm just considering straight line acceleration at the moment, and braking of course. the lower a arm is conventional with the toe link attached to the a arm so there is no bump steer. consider no bump steer for this exercise. also consider rear caster or kingpin inclination to be either...

Did a search and found this, is there any correlation to traction and weight transfer regarding the force vector of using caster in the rear? Say with parallel inboard pickups and toe adjuster on the lower a arm so no bump steer.

Your oil tank is vented properly? What size supply line between the pump and tank? No kinks? Engine not filling up with oil? Level in the oil tank when the sounds start? Can't remember the time but you'll go through a tank of oil pretty quick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5pGa2JPVo4...