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Regardless of everything else, the fitting that screws into the intake manifold behind the thermostat must reach down to the floor of the cooling jacket at that point and have a restrictor ( In factory Ford cars it was a squashed pipe ), this prevents any bubbles in the coolant stream from...

So am I.

If you cannot clock it you could make a sandwich plate out of 0.060" steel with dowel holes / sleeves to locate starter pinion in correct position for max tooth engagement, many people fail to realise the ford style starters locate in the sandwich plate which in turn is dowelled to the engine block.

Your cap got two rubber rings ?, one that goes down & seals in the inner recess, other that seals on top face of filler neck, should have so that as engine cools it will suck coolant back up & into overflow tank. Metal to metal wont work. Ha Ha, two guys typing same reply!!

All good James, warped sense of humour helps. cheers

That a trick Question James?, I think so, some others perhaps less qualified than me might not agree! Age is a wonderful thing. The bloody mini strokes have stuffed around with my vision a bit, what I rite is not necessarily wot I thougt I rote sometimes.

Dont know what I did there! Was goung to say & will still do so, Build your own body/buck, it should be simpler than the normal GT40 etc with flat sides and most carved panels being single radius.

Only by those who lack the talent to build or pay for the exhaust system.

Well, some longer in tooth members might be interested in this pic, Its the EX Russ Noble Scratch Built GT40 at Teretong today which is being driven by EX Kiwi Graham Baker home for a visit. Graham now resides in the USA and still competes along with owning/managing a race circuit.. *83^ years...

Clutch Slip??

BS, think about it, if the idea of the animation is to show the difference the two rods should have both big ends rotating around a common main brg center height and the long rod item should show a shorter piston comp height ( half the stroke distance ). No wonder the newbies get confused.

Gotta go on a road trip to talk with a man about how much more might need to be done on these...

No mention in those video's of the warranty issues with oil consumption that engine experienced.

Perhaps I should elaborate on three 400cu in windsors ive built, sorry if Ive mentioned them before. First an engine with similar specs to Howards post above, very disappointed, need a decent set of headers which owner would not pay for, was in a 1940 odd business coupe with manual trans & 9"...

Same engine? except its 4" stroke on 6.200" rods = 1.55 to 1 rod ratio. might be more suitable for towing your race car & trailer.

Right... 302 has a 5.090" rod as standard, lets say you decide to stick with that, to 'build' the engine you would deck the block to get your chosen deck height so you will incur machining costs.... stuff that, lets stick a set of 289 or 302 Boss rods in it, wont have to deck the block & might...

You raise 'some' valid points but not all of them, I'll reply later, just on 8am here 'down under'.

Hi Brian, Im just passing info onto the OP, Good to hear Bill is still in action. With freight World Wide being delayed these days a manufacturer close by is a must have. cheers Jac Mac.

Post #8 above, I see you live in SC, assume thats South Carolina, if Bill's still around & working find him & check out what his body costs these days. Found a contact # 781-659-1404. See if it works.