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I lose interest in threads like this.. One more factor is the FE engine has a Deck Height of 10.17" with exh ports square / at right angle to block face whereas the Windsor block is only 9.5" high and exh port face is angled toward toward center of VEE or if you like the port face is near...

Looks like you will need a large spacer on LH half shaft to have engine on center, might need a small weight on the other side half shaft to make up for that.

When you have one U-Joint & one CV the rotational speed change occurs either side of the U-joint and increases with the angle of that joint. Since the CV is just that it will transfer the rotational speed difference either thru the tire or into the transaxle gears depending where the U-joint is...

I thought I was up to speed with Ford Stuff, but Ive never struck 32 OZ as a 'known' balance factor? ( 'normal 289/302 & early 351w & c are all 28oz' ) 347 is usually std 4" bore and 3.4" stroke, can be 50 oz or balanced to "0' or neutral with mallory metal if you like. If you did not get...

Ford did not run ZF behind the 427, Have to assume there is a good reason for that. Having said that a mechanically sympathetic driver can probably make one last. 427 FE with five decades of corrosion in the cylinder walls is going to be a risk unless you have smashed a very heavy piggy bank and...

Oil level in tank with engine running should be about 2/3 of tank height, design, position & other factors can change that. Tank capacity can be worked out if you measure dia & height.... same as a cylinder volume .

KIWI, had access to a genuine GT40 that was in NZ for some time. Not sure how many he built, have an article by a motorsport magazine here in NZ at the time... never met the man myself, but believe he was with one of the F5000 cars in SFOS series several years ago, think Brian Stewart might know...

I assumed because its been posted on the SLC Clubhouse page that it pertained to that car, if it was the RCR GT40 that could be another matter.

On Jack Ondracks TVR ( Dry Sump SBF) we were emptying the catch tanks after each race, I built a system where the engine continually emptied the catch tank while running andfrom thereon we only had to manually drain the catch tank after last race of the day and that was minimal.

When it happens are you lifting off the gas to stop it or maintaining throttle. I'd be checking rear w/bone heights from side to side and front to rear at all points where they attach to chassis, or even for a loose bolt that might have missed being tightened at spanner check.

Probably more important to make sure none of them are placed where oil that is being flung off rockers, pushrods or gears in the transaxle is aimed at the catch tank hoses. Personally I'd prefere seperate tanks, less mess to clean if you have a head gasket or other issue where coolant can get...

Gosh, been a year or three Sandy.... thought you would have been cruising the interstate for at least one decade!... Not that I can talk.;)

Given the advances in tire technology I think all transaxle options, even quaife & others would struggle with reliability. Ive got customers that destroy the likes of G-Force & Jerico thru not being sensitive to the driveline and there have been posts on this site with complaints of ZFQ's...

Some Ford vehicles had mechanical clutch release mechanism, these were often chassis rail mounted cross shaft onto a nylon ball on that 7/16" stud. Think that is the case here if not some other linkage mount.

Just realised I might not have not posted an update, apologies if Ive done it elsewhere....Might be some connection to covid but nobody in towers of power want to know! Goes back to april 2021 when I had the flu jab as a precaution since I am considered high risk with chronic kidney injury. Fair...

If you go on a good diet it will serve well as chassis/monocoque for next seasons car, just cut holes at the appropriate points for those bits that stick out.

Im going to assume nobody is trying to procure some 14 inch dia pipe for their clutch line for their car, very important RH slash missing from the text .

Taking this discussion a step further, the need for the 1/4" or -4 size is really needed as the clutch is released, particularly with diaphragm style clutch's where the diaphragm is flattened or even goes over center in the release position at higher RPM or if RPM is kept high during a fast...

Sounds like your clutch is disengaged all the time and the piston in the master cylinder cannot return far enough to allow the fluid to drain/return back to the resovoir. Adjust/shorten the pushrod from pedal to cylinder until you have a small amount of freeboard at the clutch pedal and do the...

No Disc's brakes on wheels, just a 'drag pad'onto road surface under car, hand lever controlled.