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Thats an idea. Take a laser on the upper ball joint for example (which you know is not towing in/out) versus the one on the hub. Look at the differences in motion. Sorry if I come off as short, but new job has me working many hours and I just jump in to the point. I am certainly up for fresh...

Sorry for the short post. The laser idea is good except for it does not take into account the track change versus actual steering. If the wheels move inward under bump (normal for typical setups) it will show up as a laser movement toward the center of the car even if there is no bump steer...

The toe change was out on bump and in on droop. With the tie rod long (or rack pivot to pivot length short) the system will tend to out in either bump or droop. However, I was able to get near zero change in bump with slight toe out in droop. Car is very good under breaking and turn in...

I did a post some time ago with the setup I was using which included a short standard rotation WP with a grooved (FWD rotation) serpentine setup. Photos included. Only the WP pulley was custom.

Go to Amazon and do a search on GT40. The book by Ronnie Spain, and Trevor Legate are both great.

I do not agree with this statement. With small diameter front tires and 5" of ride height the bump steer will be better; however, with the original front end equipment the bump steer is non-zero for most any ride height. With a lowered car (e.g. 4.25" ride height and 245/45-17=25.6" tires) the...

First check the bunp steer to see how bad you might be. Then you are likely going to need to lower the rack (not very easy) or raise the tie rod end. The last setup where I was able to raise the tie rod end was accomplished by drilling out the upright to accept a bolt for the tie rod...

My guess is bump steer. Need to really work it to get it close with a "lowered" car.

First race I've watched at normal speed in a long time (not in FF). Very interesting.

Thanks! I will enjoy a day off work and a day of celebration/appreciation.

Also which camera did you go with? Where did you buy it? Thanks again,

Hi Neal. Great low cost idea. Would it be possible to e-mail me a short clip in the highest resolution and I will try to sync it with my Race Technology data logger to see if this is a possible integrated solution. The subject matter does not have to be anything special. Thanks.

I mentioned similarly equiped (iron block and alum heads and intake). You can see from the photos that one has EFI and the other has carb setup. Cost was actually cheaper for the FE however it was pieced and assembled by me versus 427W built by KC.

By Mk I, I meant back also. The weight issue has been addressed here before. If you look at my sites you will see engine weights of similarly equiped FE 427 and 427W and the weight difference is ~40 lbs.

Should make sure your rack length is "just right" for you suspension geometry to aviod bump steer problems. You can get custom racks from these guys: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/hot.htm

Check out http://gt4d.com/saac29.htm at the bottom. FE in a CAV Mk. I.

Malcolm, What data logger are you using? I am finishing up a Race Technology DL1 install at the moment.

For those of you less thrilled with watching F1 this year I have determined an optimized viewing strategy: 1.) TIVO (season pass) all broadcasts. 2.) Delete the practice event. 3.) Watch qualifying at FFx3 until there is 5-6 minutes left in Q3 session then watch at normal...

The car was functional before but I guess I would not call it fine. The factory having wired the original relay wrong was not good IMHO. Fortunately the Lucas switch and small (~18 gauge) wire on the "turn on side" of the circuit was sufficient to handle the stock fan current. The upgraded...

Well boy did I just have fun tracing down a fuse blowing/wiring problem on CAV #15. Anyway I will try to boil this down as best I can, but suffice it to say that all CAV owners should be on the lookout for relay issues. Where it began. Over the winter I upgraded fans to 1" larger SPAL fans...