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I have always jacked on the four corners at the holes where the shipping container attaches (inboard front suspension pivot, and rear on the sides where cross member attaches to chassis). But usually for the rear I just stick the jack in the center under the cross members beneath the...

I would guess that a single hole on either side of stock would be sufficient. Whatever is the easiest and best way to get that would be the ticket. Does the new Autofutura bracket use the same center to center distances that you are going with?

Re: GT350 under braking Great pics. Definitely suck up the seat leather on that one!

Hi Bob. Thanks again. Can you take a shot looking directly from behind the car with your scribe marked plate in view? I will compare to stock location. I was wondering if the adjustment for stock setups could be to shorten the stock ears and re-drill holes? I know in your case you have the...

Looks nice. Good improvements.

I found a site that has a price list showing that G67AP is the shock for "GT Developments R" and G66AP is the shock for "GT Developments F". CAV #16 came with G66 front and rear. I wonder what the difference in length might be for the G67AP? Anyone have these shocks?

Bob, Let me ask at this point one question. Are your shocks stamped with a G66 or G67 or a set of each? I am planning on shock dyno testing mine this week at a range of settings for all four shocks and will post graphs when I am finished.

I have included part numbers on my website for the clutch system and pedal system. Obviously Bob and I are using different clutches and thus need different T/O bearings. Both of my systems work well. I encourage those reading this post not to mix and match parts (e.g. Bob's T/O and Gary's...

Good luck John. Have fun vintage racing also!

Thanks for being open and posting your work. It is great. I want to get with you as you start to do your alignment specifically in regards to bump steer front and rear. Gary

Re: What we get a ENTIRE forum for transaxles and no posts?? I think we need to stick with light/lite beer cans to keep the weight down and have a better cg location.

Looks great. Two comments. I bet cutting those snap ring grooves is not fun (meaning I have not done it but would wonder how). Second I think moving the lower shock mount outboard puts less bending on the lower bracket bolts into the upright (good thing).

Nice setup. Makes toe adjustments easier!!

I have been working on the front upgrade. Lower A arms now with polyurethane. Uppers shown here.

[ QUOTE ] Their was not a single pass for posistion (on the track) in the top 10 places. ...very few places where you could SEE the track, and really crappy racing. [/ QUOTE ] Were you talking about F1??

We may get some data on a CAV this fall. I am teaching a course "Racecar Performance" at Old Dominion University and partial payment includes wind tunnel time at the Langley Full Scale Tunnel It might be interesting to include some xtreme classics options like the front spliter and a rear...

The key to moving the engine forward and down was small distributor, GT40 style pan, and short water pump. I actually do not need the hump in the firewall!

Hi John. Not sure if you saw the other thread on weights nor if your team scales your car, but wonder if you might discuss the total weight

Re: Weight of current 40\'s Well there are a couple of guys with original cars on the forum and probably have a set of modern scales in the garage. My weights are quoted using Longacre scales.

An interesting post. I wonder which car has seen more high speed track testing. All of the GT40's driven leading up to, during, and subsequent to the great Le Mans effort or the "new" Ford GT? The old cars were certainly capable of being driven by expert drivers at 200+ MPH for many hours...