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Hmmm....can you imagine the knowledge/skill you could gain from $8000 worth of driver coaching?

Thomas, you certainly have a point, CC can outlast the steel alternative WITH proper care but, as I mentioned above, they are delicate and will damage easily. My local tire shop won't even take a car on the rack with CC brakes. Proper training must be applied simply mounting & dismounting...

Most DE and club track junkies with Porsche GT3RS' swap their carbon ceramic rotors out for steel rotors simply due to replacement cost. They are also subject to damage much easier than steel rotors, i.e. something as harmless as changing a wheel can seriously damage a carbon cermamic rotor if...

I agree with Terry, 25mm seems short. Keep in mind, you need some adjustability to allow modulation of the throttle. Even if a short "throw" gets you from closed to full open you may find the throttle pedal to sensitive to minor movement. But hey, at least you have a pedal stop!

Nick, not sure if 25mm is enough. Again, variables depend on the bell crank at the carb linkage and location where the cable attaches to the pedal. You're gonna have to wait until motor install to see the final result.

Nick, it's variable due to the linkage design. The important thing to make sure your cable stops when the butterflies are full open. If you do not put a "stop" on your pedal then too much pressure against full open can bend the butterfly shaft, then you have real problems.

Ten pounds seems to work fine for me. As long as air (bubbles) are evacuating I don't see an advantage to going higher. I much prefer using a pressure bleeder, especially handy if you're alone, but early on when I first got mine I made a mess of things by applying more pressure than was...

Nice, thanks Mike

Ron, I have two Hoosier 275\50-15 R6 take offs if you want them. Email the label to: tim at ksteelrebar dot com They're almost new (<500 mi\no track use) but the side wall bubbled. I think I had them stored for several years which had something to do with it. Tim Kay

Never, ever get tired of watching that video!

Looks good. I really like the finish on the mirrors, I have not seen that before.

James, I've been looking for 6 pin which seem to be less common than 5 pin. Would you mind posting pics of the inside face of the wheel showing the 6 pin configuration? Who manufactured the wheels? Will you separate pin adapter, wheel and spinner away from the hubs? Or is the sale only the...

Alan, Although my m\c are very low mileage (1,000) they were put into service around 2009. I was noticing when I changed the fluid a few weeks ago that not only was it extremely dirty but one of the m\c is weeping so likely I'll rebuild them soon. My thought was it could be due to lack of use...

Oliver, my center master cylinder is the rear, my far right master cylinder is the front (Obviously the left master cylinder is the clutch). This doesn't necessarily mean yours is the same but it's easy enough to simply follow the lines from the top of each master cylinder Tim

Oliver, I haven't read your whole post, so excuse me if this has already been addressed, looking at the picture you posted of the pedal assembly, brake bias bar, nuts and lock pins, correct me if I'm wrong, the bias bar looks like it's set to initiate the right m/c first thus more pressure...

The very reason I spend most my track days with a 996 cup. The down side to having a cup car is it has made me feel oh so vulnerable in my GT40.

Since you probably have leather as I, go to a pin stripper and have them painted on. I did mine white on black.

Thanks Jack, I'm having the same issue as Richard in regards to the bolts holding the lens are going round and round when trying to remove. Need to get access from the inside to hold the nuts on the other end of the lens bolt. Grady, just replacing a bad bulb.

Thanks Rick, tried your suggestion but it's some strong ass RTV holding the can to the clip. A plastic or metal putty knife will not penetrate it. I was going to slide a razor in between the two but I can't tell if there is a lip there or is the "can" simply a flat surface against the RTV?

I'm in need of removing the complete tail light assembly from the rear clip. Appears the "can" at the interior is siliconed all around. I'm assuming it simply needs to be razor cut on the silicone and the can pops off. There are two screws on the tail light lens' but have not removed those...