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Easier to put it in than take it out Randy? ;)

I had Koni twin adjustables., 2800 series I think. They worked really well, really good dampers. Easily adjustable for bump and rebound in situ. I could drive it to the track, adjust them up to compete, then slacken them off to drive home... allowing for the extra weight of the trophy of course! ;)

I had that same set up Bill, with the same problems, the throttle was really stiff off idle and in the first opening. My solution, after making sure that the pedal, cable etc was as free and lubed as possible, was to make a snail cam giving the maximum pull/leverage away from idle and reducing...

Yes, the same. I started out with wadding and inserts etc. but it was all so hit and miss, never knowing if it was going to make the limit. Their oval silencers gave such peace of mind, knowing I would get in. In fact, I turned up to a 98db day once by mistake and still got through... although...

Southern GT sell a pair of boxes which will get you down to around 100db without any wadding.

SOLD

Hello Jay The chap who set mine up was Bedford way I seem to recall, but can't be sure.

As title, with rotor and small cap. Used but working. Part number 77201. £200 plus postage.

Yes, I couldn't agree more Morten. My ZFQ saw mostly track time in the 16 years I had it and it was bloody brilliant! It served me very well indeed. How you can slag off a gearbox after abusing it time and time again with huge horsepower and full slicks is beyond my comprehension. No, the ZFQ...

Sold

Yes Mark, they are.

Bespoke, Mk I body. £250 plus postage

Mk I body. £150 plus postage

New, Unused £200 plus postage

Not dry sumped, (or dry dumped!;)) It drains into the top of the oil pan Howard.

See my sketch in post 13

I had a similar problem when the engine was used hard and fabricated this system along the lines of the originals. It worked a treat.

All sold now.

All rears gone. Just a pair of fronts left £60

All those louvres should let all the heat out nicely David! ;)