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Another approach I've been wondering about is a spyder section made from carbon fiber with carbon fiber matrix/foam core. The relative strength compared to other materials including chrome moly steel is shown in the link below. This approach could potentially provide significant upgrade to the...

Yes it does thanks, Julian. From the info that's been provided here, I've decided to go the Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 route. It works out about $100CDN more expensive than the most likely alternative but all things considered, that's not really an issue. I'm sure the alternatives described here...

Yes the play sounds excessive, but thought that the extra check might be useful to ensure 'cause and effect' aren't being overlooked. My guess is that the front of the transaxle has been damaged., but if you go to the considerable time, effort and cost of repairing it, you want to make sure...

No just the std diff. I figured I'd carry on with it until there was an issue with the box (leaking seals, or whatever) that required opening up the box, then think about the one piece input shaft and ATB diff. I work on the basis of let sleeping dogs lie, or if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Hi Eddy, Thanks for the info. As you point out, Castrol Syntrans looks like preferred choice from the Esprit forum. I checked out on-line to see if anyone this side of the pond (Canada) sells it and found Amazon.ca price was $62CDN for 1/2 litre!! At 3.5L to refill the box that would work out...

Planning to replace the oil in my UN-1 (long overdue) and rereading this thread I noticed it is about 12 years old so wanted to check if the current thinking had changed. I gather Castrol TAF-X 75/90 hasn't been available for some time so would assume 75W90NS Redline would be one possibility but...

If you cut off about 6" of 17mm dia round stock and insert into spigot bearing and then get hold of a magnetic base dial gauge indicator and mount to engine block flange. If you hand rotate engine (easier with plugs out) then max run-out should be less than a thou.

Before going any further, one question I have; were you able to check the run-out of the new spigot bearing. The reason I ask, is that the next step(s) will likely entail splitting the box and just want to make sure there is no possibility that the problem lies at the flywheel end of the shaft...

Maybe before splitting the box, it might be worth checking the trueness of the input shaft. With the forces that would have been generated from the original vibrations, this could have led to a deflection to the shaft. The inner shaft bearings could also have been affected and should be...

Maybe plastigauge placed around input shaft on the inside of the thrust bearing tube would be an easier way to make the measurement

Been thinking a bit more about how to check for co-linearity of the pilot bearing and the transaxle input shaft and was wondering if the following might help. As mentioned above, there is a small amount of play between the input shaft and its surrounding thrust bearing shaft. Once you've...

Yes its the original 2 piece. I take your point about the difficulty of trying to confirm concentric centrelines of the transaxle and crank. You're right its kind of an act of faith that misalignment is neglible. I decided to use a phosphor bronze spigot bearing originally and it's been...

Jac, I checked the spigot end of the input shaft on a spare UN-1 gbox. It appears there is about 2mm of 'play' at that end so assume that any misalignment must be less than that.

Ken, a further question, in the past, when letting the clutch out slowly was there any clutch judder?

Great! Thanks Brian, good to know I'm not totally blind yet. So to me the asymmetrical wear might imply that something in the flywheel/clutch assembly might not be co-linear... I think I'm now beginning to understand Jac's point.... sorry bit slow on the uptake there....carry on.

Ken, my eyesight isn't that good and maybe it's just a trick of the angle that you took the picture, but am I correct in seeing that in the flywheel close-up photo, the left side of the cage for the needle rollers is worn away?

Thanks to both Eddy and Ian. Think that clears things up regarding the orientation of the collar. There were certainly no staking marks evident on my casting, so think Ian that your suspicion that someone may have had a similar problem and 'got to' that one may be correct. For anyone running...

that would be much appreciated - thanks John

Entirely possible John. Re which way the collar goes, i.e. concave side up or down, I'm not sure. I assumed it would be concave side up as the inner diameter of the recessed shoulder exactly fits the diameter of the spring and therefore provides a fixed location for the base of the spring , but...

Likewise, this has just happened with my car. I thought about staking it, but in the end drilled a 2mm hole through the nose of the Al casting that holds the collar in place and through one side of the collar. Then inserted a 2mm pin with a length that just reached the other side of the collar...