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Just a local shop. It’s tempered. I brought the outline in and it cost $50

Wing nuts don’t fit between the petals. I’m using nylock nuts and the spring loaded deal in the front. I want to be able to move it but it will not be a quick endeavor.

I didn’t order the adjustable petals. Big oversight on my part. RCR didn’t have any but I found a similar part on a Volkswagen bug racing site for 1/2 the price. Needed a different top plate tho.

Oh Marty, I’m still relegated to 1 of the three stalls. But I have spilled over on all sides.

I used nutsert to attach the items to the back of the firewall.

I went down the rabbit hole with doubling the firewall sound and heat protection sandwich as detailed in Tom’s trackracer. It took him, a master, 14 hours. I have what seems like a lifetime into this and it’s not done. First I cut a mirror image out in sheet aluminum. Then glued some...

I really need to stop doing this to myself

More AC, copiied from Kurbmeister again I went with stainless steel hardlines in the front and tunnel for the look and to save space in the tunnel. They were silver soldered. The lines in the cabin and engine bay are crimped tube. Wiring has been a fear of mine since the start of this...

The air conditioning from Vintage finally arrived. Getting these out of the way from under the dash is a real bitch. Not fun at all. I cut, reversed and epoxied the offending bumps to allow the evaporator to sit flush under the dash.

Here is my quarterly update. It’s not because I haven’t been putting in the time. My build has actually become obsessive. I’ll start where I left off. I used the alternator and bracket from CVF. It needed tons of modification. The teeth of the fan needed to be ground down and the helm...

Where did you buy the linkage for the transaxle?

Is the fan on the alternator absolutely necessary? My alternator fits pretty good without it. I know some shave it down. What are the cons for keeping it off? Thx

I put the spave cylinder on and connected it to the arm. The bleeder screw is 3/8 but has a 45 degree end. I am trying to figure out what the other hole is. Some online say it’s 3/8 NPT fine thread. But I can easily put the bleeder screw into that hole. The end of the clutch line looks like...

I feel like I’m making progress but haven’t posted much because nothing is completed. Just small baby steps. I had to take the engine out again. I couldn’t get the stupid crankshaft pulley on with engine in place. So that’s 3 times. I’m trying to keep it under 50 by the time this is...

No it doesn’t. And thank God. I would probably commit Seppuku.

The RCR manual shows these white nylon plugs into the cross member and I think 3/8 bolts. I temporarily held the trans up with 1/2 inch bolts that just fit. Any thoughts on which method is better? If I stick with the 1/2 inch bolts, I was going to get grade 8 or better that aren’t fully...

I finally made some real progress. With the throw out bearing cut, I was able to tackle the engine. I managed to pound in the pilot bearing without deforming it like before. The throw out bearing fit nicely. The clutch was assembled for the second time. And no joy getting the transaxle to go...

Only used 1.

You too, Chris!

I used that sleeve in my RCR gt40. Just make sure you put the brake lines in first. I found it easiest to put the sleeve through the tunnel and then feed the tube through the sleeve. I could not advance the tube and sleeve in together.