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Here is a short holiday update. I had a small victory with my greatest nemesis to date. I posted long ago the problem I was having with my throw out bearing being too long. I had a machinist friend holding on to it for months to no avail. He was concerned about turning hardened steel and the...

The washers are to approximate the angle needed to clear the firewall. I have no intention of leaving those permanently. I was thinking of a wedge of metal to put below the roll bar. I calculated that it is 7 degrees off.

I didn’t put the uprights on yet. I just tightened the roll bar to the chassis and the angle is tipped to far back for the firewall to clear the suspension attachment point

No. It is in front. The pics up top show it. The problem I have is the angle is tipped back too much.

Again, I’m no expert. Here’s my reasoning. The aluminum does oxidize. However, I don’t think holes would appear in our lifetime. One guy polished the entire chassis like he was trying to win an Overdrive Pride and PoIish competition. Got to get it to a mirror like finish. I went with 2k...

I am using the clutch release lever from Safir. It has a different spline number than the Quaife. So I purchased and installed the rod from Safir. Hopefully it doesn’t bust.

I attached the front plate, along with the radiator. And since I have no originality, I made a frame for the fans using rivets and a little TIG welding.

I used lizard skin sound and heat coating on the firewall and cockpit. Unfortunately, it’s winter in Michigan. That stuff needs at least 60 and preferably 70 degrees to cure. I had to rent a propane heater to jack up the heat in the garage. Lizard skin is pretty thick so the suspension blocks...

It’s been 2 months since my last confession. I work on the car every day but progress eludes me. I have a plan, work the plan and determine it’s a crappy plan. I started with the gas tanks. First, I needed some holes. Next goes the tank. Sounds easy. I have put that stupid tank in and out...

I’m not sure what I am doing wrong. I disassembled the roll bar and the firewall, which fit at the time. When I went to reassemble, the roll bar is tipped too far back to accommodate the suspension attachment point on the chassis. I can’t get the clearance without putting washers under the...

I went on field trip Friday. Rod Dittmar was kind enough to give a tour of his nearly completed GT40. Amazing! He fired it up and nearly took a picture off the back wall.

Almost done with painting the chassis. Primed the bottom and used Raptor liner.

I have a 580 HP engine and calculated that I require 50 GPH. The facet is 33 GPH and recommended for engines up to 350HP. Any recommendations

I have a question on this topic. Would placement of the pump in the compartment behind the tank in the RCR allow for push type fuel pumps? Its technically at the level of the tank. I was thinking of the Aeromotive. Aeromotive High-Output Billet Fuel Pumps 11219

I took an angle grinder to the bellhousing and aligned the engine, I drilled 2 holes for the engine plates taking the 0.4 inches further back into account. Then I continued with disassembly. So both my boys abandoned me at this point. Something about college education, for what’s that worth...

I am way less worried about the suspension bar doing me in than just the fact that I am building a race car. There are better odds that I hit the start button and blow up in my opinion.

I believe I saw this argument in posts from 2008. How many have been impaled? I guess I’ll just remove it to be safe.

That’s why I plan to wear this

I connected the engine, bellhousing and transaxle without the clutch and pilot bearing for fitment purposes. With my rudimentary tools, getting the combo in place is impossible. I removed the back plate and supports. This attachment point for the bellhousing is preventing me from pulling the...