Search results

Minor Postscript.... I tried - honest I did, couldnt move the nut at all,to either loosen or tighten - and thats with a 30inch breaker bar, so thought I would ask my local Ford dealer how much to replace a Granada Mk3 FNS wheel bearing.......... What a shower - one has to laugh... I checked on...

better late than never. Sorry about the delay, but here are the pics I promised....

Raising an old thread... What make/model is the "standard" GTD rack? As I might need to get mine refurbed. Or is there a better replacement available now?

Thank you all for your info & your support. There is very little play - only just discernible on the wheel when jacked up. Having looked on fleabay today, Mk3 bearing sets vary between £4.99 & £302 (QH)!!!!. My local Motor factor has them for £18 or £25 (FAG) a set. I think I will try nipping up...

Brill. Thank you folks, and particularly John, who put it in terms that (even) I could understand. One more Q, though... You state it is a Mk3 upright, but I have also been told its a Mk2! As is obvious, I am unfamiliar with the details on these, so how can I tell the difference?

You wanted photos. Here they are. I am still not sure how to adjust the hub bearing. I cannot see any way to get into the hub, however the fact that the nut on the inside of the stub axle and its cover is covered in grease makes me think that that is the adjustment method. Your thoughts on this...

Bum! Bugger! Bo****ks! Having spend the last 2 days ( ok an hour or so every nite), trying to remove the 6 studs that hold the 2 halves of the hub together ( or so I thought). Get to remove the last one tonight and find that the hub is still solid, but the disk is loose!!!!! Further...

Jac. You are absolutely correct. I couldn't see last night, but yes.. Those pins are threaded through the hub and have 3/4AF nuts on the inside if the disc ( not rotor); albeit next to impossible to get onto, because of the dish and the proximity of the upright. I have managed to under 3...

I have a 5 ( or 7) inch screen attached to the centre lower dash, but I am constantly clouting it with my knees.( no centre console on one of these!). Maybe a 3 or 4" version might be better?

You can get them that look like a rear view mirror

I think you can see in the pics, the pins all have flats on them (presumable for a spanner), but I couldn't get any of them to shift, last night.

I have rear sensors and a rear camera. The camera is mounted above the air filter and views through the rear screen. Although the view is very good, and you can just see both rear corners, but there is a lot of glare through the screen, so I am thinking of moving it to the back of the rear...

I need to adjust the FNS wheel bearing, but I have knock-offs on my motor and the bearing is hidden inside the hub. I believe that the outside is held on by the drive pins, but cant seem to undo them. are they clockwise or anticlockwise threaded? anything else that might help? is it...

Thanks for the quick reply, John. One of my concerns was the statement that these oils are GL4/GL5 compatible..... my understanding was that GL5 oils were a no-no in Syncro boxes, as one of the ingredients "eats" the bronze in the Synchros. Can anyone throw more light on this?

Rebuilt (at last), but what oil do you recommend for use in the Renault box? I see that Castrol TAF- X is what is OEM spec, but I have seen Syntrans mentioned as well as "standard" EP75w90 GL4 & GL5. It is a road car, so not abused.

5th gear and selector now removed and will be on its way to Chris Cole (the correct one, not the guy in NZ!!!!! - Sorry ;)) for him to check prior to refitting. I have a workshop manual, so that helps:) Oh- and apparently Chris had a quadruple!! bypass, but says he is now fine :).

thanks Ian. I found his membership email, so have tried that for starters. Good he is recovering.

Does anyone know if Chris Cole has an e-mail address?

reet - took rear cover off today... must remember to drain oil in future :o. here are a couple of pics. cant see anything wrong with selector mechanism, but it could have moved when the cover came off. is the fifth gear supposed to look like that - the teeth look a bit chewed to me?

I have had a problem with gear selection and have found a loose bolt where the machanism pivots outside the gearbox. I have now fixed this and adjusted some of the pivots, so that wear is not so critical. I think the problem that I now have is in the gearbox as the selector shaft will not move...