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alan, that was the part that broke on me a 70 plus mph, it then jammed the parking brake and the rotor would not turn

where do you live Marshall?

you are correct Cliff, I rode to charlotte ,picked up a motor ,paid cash and drove home. the motor is great by the way, but no way would I order one from them. However, it is interesting that southern guys located within driving distance of T&L seem to get their motors with no problem.

while all true that we have to make sacrifices in our efforts to build a correct replica, some because of finances, some because of parts availability, some just personal preference. However, when I think of a MK11, I think of the body shape and the motor, all the other stuff(brakes,AC, heat...

you can definitely build an aluminum FE for the same or less than a Roush 427r and about the same weight as the iron block windsor. Also, you never have to apologise about your choice when someone asks what motor you have.

My SPF MK11 had the Roush Windsor based 427, but if I were doing it again I would go with a Shelby or Pond aluminum block FE side oiler(the Shelby is really not a side oiler, but looks like one). the side oiler in my Kirkham cobra was the best motor I ever had and did not leak, it was an iron...

I had an SPF MK11 and a CAV MK1. I ended up keeping the CAV, as I just liked the look better and it was easier to live with on a daily basis, more water tight and less maintenence. I like the way the front bonnet hinges on the CAVS, the fiberglass seemed more solid, the interior more refined...

Gordy, does that pic look familiar? I put a new 347 with a dyno of 473hp, upgraded the sound insulation, new shifter mechanism ect.. it is a rocket now.

Mark, I finally got my CAV back on the road last week with the new motor, but I have not let it really run fast yet. You may well see it out and about in the Greenville area as I drive it to work quite often.

GT40s are complicated cars and expensive. You are trying to go the most expensive route by doing it a little at a time, and will likely run into far more problems than you can imagine by doing it that way. I understand your reasoning, but the reality is that buying a package or a mostly...

My suggestion is to only buy from them if you are close enough to pick it up or stop by now and then and shake the tree. My motor was built and in inventory when I bought it so no issues there and so far it is a great motor with no issues

I am in Greenville SC. I have not heard of a car that has the roof as part of the frame. The SPF uses a steel pressed roof and most others use a fiberglass roof. I have had both and could not tell the difference. I do not know of any kits made near our area. Your best bet would probably be an...

I used a dynamat typ material covered by 5/8 inch closed cell foam. there are many good products now, but if I were doing it again and on any future projects I will use products from this company,Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin, they have several excellent products...

Thanks Cliff, I finally found that wire, it had slipped into the MONO out of sight

I found my manual and it does not even show the AC diagram.

Cliff, I would love a copy of the wiring manual

might be a good time to consider moving the evaporator to the front of the radiator. Mine is mounted that way and is very efficient.

I used 5/8 inch closed cell foam around the stering box and other tub holes, sometimes held in place with black silicone. I still think the key to sealing around the door frame, especially around the roof area is to have some kind of mechanism to pull the door down as it closes. I found that...

just another suggestion on AN hose. I have started using only Aeroquip Startlite Nomex hose instead of SS wrapped. It is much easier to work with, looks far more period correct and leaves no cuts on your hands. It is expensive however. I got most of mine from a company that sells overstock and...