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Nice! Did you fabricate that or buy it somewhere?

Ok, that’s the pump that comes with the tankless kit. Now I just need to dig around for the 110 cup height.

Thanks again. I’ll see if I can call them this week and see if they know or search the forum some more to see if I can find the correct size before ordering.

Thanks for getting back. I know they are 110 diameter but they sell different depths I guess. See picture. Do you know the model of the larger pump? Is that the one in the kit?

I’m looking into the stance lift cups for my build. I see a couple of different versions for the 110 mm. Did you get the 110x40? Also did you just do the front or should I’d front and back? Thanks for your help!

Still have these blocks for sale. After looking at the internals I pulled from the 302 block it looks like it was a 289 block. Crank is a 1M. I guess they ran out of 289 blocks in 68 and started using these. So if anyone is looking for a 289 or 302 block just looking to clear them out.

Looking for some help with my Gurney Eagle valve covers. My engine from prestige has another set of valve covers on the with a breather on each cover with the Borla 8 stack EFI. I am looking to put on the Gurney Eagle valve covers and want to make them look period authentic but not necessarily...

Thanks, Randy. I still haven’t dropped my engine in yet and was hoping the Pier rug would be able to mount on the DS low somewhere but I guess from your post there is no room.

Would love to get a copy of the file for the mount you made for the pump. Looks like we’re going the same direction with pump and water pump plate. Pat

Looking at fire suppression systems for my 40 as I build it. I’ve read several articles here about them and am wondering about a couple of things. - not going to be racing it so don’t need to conform to any rules so should I add nozzles in the cabin or keep a bottle in there? This way I could...

While stripping out my RCR to send off items for powder coating I noticed some helm joints were rusted and some looked clean? Should I upgrade to Teflon coated helm joints now that these are apart or are these good quality from RCR?

Well got some stuff moved around and am starting to tear into the car at last. Have the body pieces on horses and pulling pieces for powder coating. Looking at the helm joints on these pieces and some have surface rust and some look clean. Wondering if I how they are and if I should replace...

Did you bother undercoating the car at all or just did the interior with heat shield?

Sharkhide might be exactly what I’m looking for!! Will research it but seems easy enough to apply and looks like it holds up well.

Thanks I figured it would be easier as an assembly. I checked the bellhousing during assembly and remember shooting for .005 and it was within those specs. I can’t remember the numbers but they might still be on the bellhousing. I’ve always shot for .005, can’t imagine going for .001. Now...

I like the look of the aluminum chasis and parts and am wondering if anyone kept theirs natural finish and assembled the car without coating it or painting it? Wondering how it held up and would you recommend it? Or is there something I can apply like a clear coat to retain the all aluminum...

I sure hope so. Ready to drop the engine in but trying to figure out what to do with the rear clam? Running out of storage space. Also wondering if I can put it in with the clam attached? Engine and trans together or install separately. Everything is new for me working in this car compared...

Has anyone hung their rear clam shell from the ceiling for temporary storage while working on the engine bay? I’m getting ready to install the engine and trans, etc and have no real storage space left for the clam shell. I could get the engine in from the side with the clam up, but not sure...

Yes I went with the Davies plate. Much more room to work with.

Thanks the third photo/specs looks like the one I need!!