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Because I did not fit the air intakes into my mold, they are added after. That made the mold so much simpler. They scoop is molded in a folded aluminium tray, cut to shape and bonded in place. The rear clip is also now mounted and can be tilted for engine access. Cheers

Well after all that, it fits. now to tidy it up and add the side scoops, fabricate the body mounts, fit the rear grills and brake ducts. The Toyota 1UZ is a different shape but fortunately fits in the hole where the Rover previously sat. Thursday will be mold the front clip day which will be...

Rear clip molded and removable spoiler molded on rear, and yes it popped off ready to be tidied up and refitted as per original. There are a few details now to be added like the side scoops etc, so only the nose to do next after a bit of a break, laid up the tail in about 2 hours....hot work in...

That stinky stuff again. Still we have moved two doors closer now, waxing the back clip ready for the next wind change. Cheers

Leon The first picture is my Rear clip mold as last used, not clean and been stored for 2 years and the second one is the door mold polished ready for molding. Cheers

Leon, the more work you put into your finish now means that much less come mold time. I am waxing my molds again now ready to pull body number two and the surface is still almost perfect if I can say. I did give it 5 coats of wax which is still very much intact so I will only re coat 3 times...

Leon, that wrap has pulled in real tight around the rivets, looks good. Try and keep it out of really hot sun as the wrap will tend to shrink back to flat. Cheers

Leon, looking good, what rack was that thanks. Cheers Russell

b Bugger..big time I am still deep in the process of learning the black art of suspension articulation toe in / out. Cheers

John, that will certainly make itself known on the track, hope the whoopsie is not too much of a drama. Cheers Russell

Thanks John, I rang LVVT and they were very helpful, got a 17 page doco that explains what where how and who!. I have just ordered new shorter steering rods as I was screwed-in hard and run out of adjustment. Starting to get my head around what to do so shed time will cure it. Cheers Russell

Graeme looking for a motor/gearbox / diff thanks. Email me price thanks Cheers

Graeme Yes there is camber change due to the suspension arms being unequal, I just need to talk to LVVTA to find out what sort of tolerance they accept as I have ride and bump acceptable. Have you still got that 4k chassis set up? Cheers

Randy My posts do go to the correct forum, its just that they go straight to the `filed ` location and do not come up as new posts, hence they are not seen unless you go looking for them. Cheers

Hi there, why do my posts go straight to the forum rather than posted for reading / comments. It does not appear to make any difference as to the time I post. Regards Russell

Help!!! Working on getting bump steer minimized, so I have set up two guide extensions on the front discs to see toe in / out on suspension movement and have come up against a lack of knowledge for cures. If you look at the picture showing the two sets of measurements, rack forward and rack...

Rod, did you manage to locate one of those badges, I could get one for you if needed so let us know. Cheers

Been an exhausting couple of days..scuse the pun. Everything set up with just a couple of welds to do insitu, then its HT paint and wrap before bolting them up for good. I have mounted the mufflers this way so that I can have the longer tail pipes which I can stuff with some other sound...

Duratec is polyester based and NOT suitable for polystyrene...absolutely correct. Russell

Leon I finish coated my molds with a product called Durotec, a polyester hi build that sanded like a dream and after 1200 grit sanding almost ended up with a shine. It left a fantastic surface that McGuires Canuba wax polish x 5 coat`s and everything just fell of it, no hang ups at all. Cheers