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That is awsome thanks for putting in a DFX, I can have my water jet guy modify for my style latch.

Got some dims over the phone and taped some fag packs together and I am pretty close. Holes are 2 1/4” dia approx. distance is guesstimate

Here is a detailed pic of the left side shut of P1053 showing the top holes for the TR4 light and the switch in the dimple below. The piece of metal is rectangular that fits inside and covers both circles and is tacked in where you see.

Can’t wait to see the bigger picture of the assembly

Don t think you are allowed to say fag anymore James, there is a magistrate that will jail you for 20 months!

Any luck drawing the bracket that holds the latch?

You can buy the reproduction Marchal

You have to put down good floor protection because it is hell to clean off! Why sound first then heat? I would have thought heat first to keep from conducting into the metal.

Pieces are cut and pasted so headers and trailing arms all have room.

The road cars had them, this is 1062

This is the bracket I am looking for a drawing to replicate and affix to my roll bar if anyone can help.

If you have a dfx file I can then have water jet cut out.

Anyone have a drawing for the sheetmetal bracket that the latches mount to?

Bump

Looking for a set of the feet that bolt to the tops of the carbs and support the intake cover plate or drawings. Thanks

The SGT exhaust fouled the inner rear clam where the upper trailing arms come through. So had cut them out to get clam to shut. The trailing arms are also in a more outboard position so cut, and begin to paste with clearance. Need to order more panel bond to glue the last bits in but if should...

Excellent job with your build. Sorry I had not seen until now but keep up the good work and the blog. Where is your internal AC unit going to fit?

Had to clearance the air duct for the header. Then completely sever and reset the lower spyder drop legs as they had a weird set I couldn’t correct with heat and cooling. So mocked in place then some panel weld to hold. Today I will reinforce with glass.

Using a piece of Z bar from McMaster Carr,I maid a retainer for the top of the bulkhead window so it will stay pressed tight against the rollbar/bulkhead. Then trimmed offending glass on the inner rear clam panels so it will fully shut now. Clearanced around on header at the rear brake cooling...

Vintage wheels made mine