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Almost a month since my last update…life gets in the way sometimes. Just been working (again) on getting the spider bodywork closer to a “finished” status enough to mount hopefully for the last time. It needs more work with another coat of sandable primer before the final black on the inside...

Ryan, which soft touch brand are you using and what is your experience with it? I’m debating doing my GT40 dash and possibly other interior surfaces in black.

Frustrating as heck…happened on my fresh built 427FE. I ended up just replacing the almost new needle/seat assembly as it happened twice. I’ve sworn off ethanol as much as possible and haven’t had an issue since then.

I’ve used 3M 6504 Marine Adhesive Sealant recently. It’s good stuff if it will be in the splash/wet areas of the car. Check to see on any product of how compatible it will be with the paint or coating product that may be used with it. If you are leaving it raw aluminum look then I have had...

Not sure of your over cautious concern. I have only had one throttle cable issue in all my years (40+) of flying, driving, boating, cycling and anything with a motor. That one was on my first Cobra replica shortly after getting it on the road and the routing got too close to the hot headers...

G86.10 is purported to be considerably weaker. The G86.20 has the same internals as the G96 and either should be good for 400+ torque/hp if treated properly. I’ve heard no more than 300 hp for the G86.10 but don’t know many who have tried to honestly test it.

Porsche…however not typical of most, mine is a G86.20

I’ve got a little different construction than your RCR but you can see how I did it in my build thread. Post in thread 'Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40' https://www.gt40s.com/threads/classic-horsepower-scratch-gt40.56682/post-590028 The rear on my frame has a couple good options for 1-2...

Here’s my version after going through your same struggle. I will use these for towing and transport tiedowns for the front. As far as a jacking point, the front two corners of my front subframe (also where these connect) are reinforced to support & accommodate lifting. As far as the rear I...

Jumping around various tasks lately. Today’s effort was starting on the center console & tunnel cover. Figured I needed to get the electrical cutoff switch location finalized and how all the remaining system cables, hoses and wires will be routed and secured in the footwells.

Not a lot of pics & visible progress since my last update. However, it was time to finalize AC hose fittings and lengths as well as crimping them in final form. Made the drier bracket and installed onto the front RH side panel after checking clearances and hose routing. Awaiting for the...

They are indeed solar powered motion activated lights…we use a very similar set to illuminate our back deck & pool at night. Keeps wild animals from falling into the pool since we’ve gotten them.

Andy, I’ve been looking at theses LiFePO batteries as well and they sound pretty good. I was particularly looking at them due to their smaller size and weight for different mounting locations. I ended up settling on the front mounted battery location mainly for weight distribution and to keep...

Ok I bought a set of these that look like the military-spec mirrors on the aircraft I flew. I’ll be getting the spider and doors back on in the coming months and will post pics of them mounted then. These are approximately 5.25”X 2.5”

Thanks for your insight Julian. Are you manual or power steering? From what I remember (I’ll have to look again when I get back home) on my Cobra replica, the manufacturer recommended 2-3 caster for manual steering vs 6-7 for power steering. So I’m a little concerned about it darting if I’m...

Hey there everyone, I’ve done my basic alignment using a Hunter system and have quite a bit of experience doing them. What I am essentially looking for is a discussion or experience comments on the specs you used (mostly for street use) and tire wear. If you have an Active Power chassis, even...

Why not save the weight and make them from 1/8” plywood & fiberglass or even aluminum? My thoughts are aluminum as I’m going to Rhinoline the wheel wells anyway but am open to other ways & materials as well. Sorry for the thread migration.

Paul, sorry…I thought I had posted about this some time ago but will go back and see or add it in the next couple updates if not. Here is a couple pics that I did find in my files. Unfortunately I don’t have the exact one with the spring but drew it into the position that I found will work on...

Steve, the pics in my build log should help as my doors are RCR and am using the mini bear claw latches. It was a debate in my mind whether to mount the latch inside the door or on the outside of the rear face. My debate was settled by the close proximity of the latch to the spider flange and...

Welcome Justin, it took me 20yrs of life and lurking here (during which I built 2 replica Cobras and several other cars) to get “started” on my ‘40. As Brian said, keep learning and asking questions along your journey. I find that doing SOMETHING everyday/week/month keeps you motivated and...