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As oriented on the 40, not the Pantera, is the ZF 5DS-25's input shaft above, below, or at the same level as the driveshafts?

This is a photo of the ID plate on my ZF transaxle. The gear ratios seem low to me given the output horsepower of the 289 circa 1967, but I'm hoping someone might have some insight as to why the ratios are as they are and perhaps what the ID numbers mean. Thanks, John

Doug- if you're still looking, I think I have the CD somewhere.

Just last week I watched an hour-long biography of him posted on YouTube. Hoover, Mitchel, Yeager, Crossfield - what full lives they lived!

I'll second that! Where 'bouts in the Houston area? John

I came across this original GT40 289 on the historic racing site today. (just below the 52,000 euro (!) BMW 2000cc M12/7 engine) parts for historic race cars - on historicracing.org.uk No connection to me, just interesting to see the real deal, and only £15,000.

Cliff- That is so epically heretical even Luther and Richelieu!ieu would be impressed! ;)

Any opinions on how these might work in combination with the Explosafe flame retardant system? Link:EXPLOSAFE :: SYSTEM

I wonder how Holley suggests plumbing two tanks--simple T without check valves?

This is a shaded view of a ZF dash 0 bellhousing scan I had made and thought it might be useful to someone here familiar with CAD. The scan has been converted to a wire frame model and was professionally done on a $35,000 machine, so it's +/- 0.5 mm accurate. Because I asked for high...

I've got an Aviaid dry sump pan 5-1/25" deep, and the flywheel is 160 teeth, about 11-3/4" dia. , so the bottom of the chassis tubes, the pan, and the flywheel are all essentially at the same level, with the bellhousing an inch or so lower. I'll post a sketch tomorrow that makes that a bit...

I've got just the opposite concern as a previous poster: I've got a potential issue with my bell housing (289/upright ZF) being too low. I'm aware that raising the engine will increase U-joint wear, and the CV coupling has restrictions as well, but are there other factors that limit the safe...

Are the old style Lucas bullet crimp connectors really all that bad? I know the jokes, but they certainly saw a lot of use. John

Either of these two can probably help you out. Historic Racing: parts for historic race cars - on historicracing.org.uk Tony Thompson Racing: Brakes John

No, they don't protrude into the water galleries, at least not on the 289 HP block I have. Which year block do you have, has it had any work done on it, and is the head gasket intact? John

You might try this: Drill 1/16 inch pilot holes on the panel side of the tube first, then cut a number of 1/16 inch steel rods (pins) just long enough that they protrude slightly when you push them into the holes. You can put the rod in first, then cut it off if that's easier, and you can...

You can rotate the driveshaft so that it's splines line up with those of the first clutch disc and push it part way through, but the second disc splines will block it from going any further if they're not aligned with the first. At least that's what I encountered on my Sheffield twin disk clutch.

Alan- I made mine from a wooden dowel the same diameter as the inside diameter of the disks, with a stepped down end to fit the pilot bearing. I super-glued a 2 inch length of square bar stock to the side of it, and that one "spline" is all you need to align the disks. Not particularly...

Neville- If you decide to go that way, I have the original bell housing from my -0 transaxle sitting on the shelf in the garage. I'd be willing to have it 3D scanned here in Houston and have the scan converted to an AutoCAD -friendly solid so you could make any modifications you need to make...

That photo is automotive porn.