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Thanks, I hadn't considered that. I'll do that when I go back to recess the bolt holes. I think one or two heads may interfere with the belt just slightly. I also need to add a shallow channel on one bracket for the head gasket that protrudes from the side of the head. It prevents it from...

I've been working on the brake and fuel system lines....lets just say I've had quit a few changes in direction and many purchased/returned fittings...and at least two hard lines flared without the fitting on....lol. I did manage to wrap up the alternator bracket finally. Plan on getting a...

I appreciate the feedback especially those that have experience with some sort of ITB setup. I'm definitely leaning further against the ITB's now. On a video of the ITB manufacturer they swapped stock intake back to back with the ITB's and everything looked great. One thing that was...

I'm in the middle of a decision making process. I thought I was going to pull the trigger on ITB's for my LS1. Previously I had a double catch can planned for my standard intake/throttle body setup....which won't work well for the ITB's without a vacuum source. I'm not that familiar with...

Appreciate the feedback, and it was spot on regarding accessibility, because I had gone under the car to see how I would do a belt change in finishing the design. Tightening the tensioner while also torqueing it was going to be tough. Fitting the manual tensioner was the easy route. I'm...

As I understand it, in chain drive system a tensioner should be located on the slack side and a pulling configuration is preferred. Is there a optimal location and config for Serpentine belts? I almost always see the tensioner directly after the crankshaft or close to it and can't see any...

I was sure to double check the starter cleared the frame when I lowered the engine. I seemed to have overlooked the alternator, not that it would have changed anything. Mocking up an alternator relocation bracket, I'll make of aluminum. This is really the only place it will fit. This pic...

LT6 crate engine talks?? Plans for LT6

I think if you are running stock LS power the G.96.01 may be ok, but if you running any type of forced induction I don't think it will hold up. That said, you'd be a brave soul to run a 917 at 1000hp (or even 750hp). I think there are mixed experiences out there on G96 longevity, perhaps...

Sorry to also not answer your question exactly. I'm cool with the LS3 but unless this is a street/show car, the G96.01 is not a great choice. My advice is keep saving if it's a financial issue. These builds take some time and you might not need all parts up front. I'm putting a G96.01 in my...

Got around to starting the process of lowering the engine. The trans mount is 90%. The take away here is our frame is so unsymmetrical (not a news flash), it was SUPER difficult to determine a proper alignment of the engine. Heres a before/after of trans mount. Superlite's mount is using a...

Took a little while to get things cut out and tacked. We tacked the motor mounts back to back before welding them to prevent warping the plates. Prior to some paint. Need to machine a little more off the bushings after welding the tubes. Next week hopefully we can cut the frame, motor &...

Getting started on lowering the engine and trans. Mostly planning so far. I'm going to move the attachment point of the motor mount forward of the cradle and remove the factory transaxle mount for a new one. The engine/Trans will be moved about 2-1/4" down, limited by the starter and a couple...

Great work!! I know you toyed with the idea of 8 into 1 headers first and transitioned to crossover. I've been considering making an 8 into 1 header as well but lately considering trying to fit the GTM kook headers and maybe joining the collectors. I almost can't even buy the stainless...

Thanks Howard. Those are definitely a good option and save's some space. I like having a spare tank so I can continue working when I replace the empty. I also had another cheap regulator that came with the welder and a spare hose.. So I just bought some cheap silicone plugs to make my own...

Coolant tubing is tacked. Just need to get another argon bottle so we can purge and weld. We couldn't make a straight shot from the radiator because it's angled down. Then we needed to squeeze under the rack...that's why there's an "extra" 45'. We need to lower the engine still which will...

Reporting back on the tubing bead roller clampy thing I posted recently. I believe formal name is Jobber-do. Just attaching a picture of the results. This was with about five passes. I know I can put on a more pronounced bead with it, but I think this is sufficient to keep silicone couplers...

I'll be using a Haltech Nexus R5. Its an ECU/PDM and should make the setup of the PWM pretty straight forward. This handles 8a up to 12v through PWM so that overcomes the 5v issue many have using arduino's etc. to set these pumps up. I've included a page from Haltech on the 8a & 25a outputs.

Been lucky to finally get some free time to work on this. Just wrapped up the mounts for the radiator. Really was a function of the space constraints and lack of mounting surfaces. Will tie in one more spot later that will double as the body shock mounts as well.

This is the CWA400. The drawings on Tecomotive are a big help on laying things out also.