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The rest of us just let the car eat small animals... I have coolers on both sides to make sure the animals come out in small pieces.

BTW, Great info from Howard above. Guys don't be afraid to do your own alignment. It's not rocket science. Just takes care and patience. Some of the settings are personal preference within reason (caster and toe), so don't hesitate to change. I run a bit more toe-in than Howard (front and...

Nope. Don't think he's been running BBORR.

Sorry, never ran "B"s. Have tried a few non-Wilwood pads in our Wilwoods. Only thing good I can say about any of those is they are cheaper and the local shop always has them on the shelf.

I used something like Kurt did. But the foam sealing tape I got expands a BUNCH. I have a couple, don't remember which I used there, but they come off the roll about 1/8-1/4" thick and expand to 1" or 2" (depending on which it is) in a short time. Used the same to seal top of the radiator to...

We use BP30/40s on the Sprint car. 40 on LF, 30 on Rear. The 40s grab on application - desirable on the Sprint car LF as it helps turn the car. Both work well cold and hot.

The gear whine won’t be too bad since it’s behind the engine.

I'm with Mesa. It's all about how you set yours up. Personally mine is setup hard as a rock and marginal height for the street. It's not the least bit twitchy (when it's right). Mine is used mainly for Open Road Racing where speeds are 130+ for 20-28 minutes at a time. With the downforce it...

If you are looking for a boosted application (eventually), you probably don't want a 427. The large bore does not leave much cylinder wall causing various issues. Over the last few months I've put a LSX376-B15 (GM Crate Engine) in mine. Probably the same block as the Blueprint Engine above...

My starter had an issue with an LS7. Upgraded the battery->starter wire and then spun it over great. 4 gauge was TOO SMALL even with the battery in the engine compartment. I now run 0ga with battery up front and a disconnect switch.

On the Sprint Cars, we went to BP-30s on the front and -40s on the back with Super Alloy rotors. No brake problems since, have been very happy.

The Graz has no gear sensors other than reverse ("Backup-Lamp Switch" as they call it in the manual). This is the "sensor" that is mounted on the Shift Unit cover. You could use switches like the existing reverse switch to make a "Neutral Switch" (sense when linkage is centered linear &...

You may be a bit north of 540 ;). I have a 383 here with 11:1, AFR 220cc. With a healthy street cam and hydraulic rollers, makes 531hp on the dyno @6500 with 93. That's with a single plane intake that fit under a 2" raised C3 corvette hood and long tube headers. Those 400s unshroud the...

That's been a loooooong term gripe. Glad I had munchkins in the house then I could use for free labor.

There are guys that do HID conversations on existing housings. Truckers have a guy the regularly use. He could make sure the aim is correct for the new angles. here is the set for my truck https://www.hidprojectors.com/collections/freightliner/products/freightlinerm2

Howard, We've been running enough downforce to take off the road reflectors (literally 100s of them in 10 minutes). But with the bump springs and now less downforce, that's not happening. I'll try less pressure and see how it does and how that effects our temps. We are running real street...

Bump springs can help a lot.... just one more tuning aid. I have two stages (three springs total) that engage as the car gets lower (or wheel gets higher).

Howard, Do you track yours at those pressures? Your and my "track usage" are totally different, but I run > 40 psi (cold) all the way around. Less if the wing is off.

I have that "cheap" trigger wheel with only 16 teeth or so. Works fine for VSS. But I'd expect you want the ABS tone wheel (more teeth) for traction control. Keep in mind you are measure axle speed which is about 1/3 of a typical RWD driveshaft speed.

If you switch to 2.25" springs, that problem goes away. You also get a better selection of springs.