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Yeah, aware of that. But that would be an easy task in the workshop after it would have been cut out :) And the 70$ girdles seems to be like 1/4" steel plate only, the thicker ones always come as kits and i want to buy ARP154-5408 and would therefore want just the girdle, but still a 1/2" thick...

Looking to save some money on the stud girdle for my SBF302 block. Tried finding a file myself, but to no luck. Does anyone here sit on a file to be able to cut out my own girdle in 1/2" mild steel?

Wonderful project, and a nice motor at that. Love the pre year 2000 alfas and motors :)

we have a build like that here in Sweden, it is very doable. https://forum.locostsweden.se/topic/13724-magnus-v%C3%A4g-till-f%C3%A4rdig-gt40/page/4/#comment-157297 Some modifications are to be expected thou.

That sounds like more or less the same space i will have in my future project, meaning that all the mentioned options will fit, even though some of them will rub your back more or less because of the tight fit.

regarding engine, what type of length and width do you have to work with? Thinking something like a VW W12(Or Bentley version), Mercedes M120 or maybe the odd 1GZ-FE? W12 being the shortest of them all, but also the widest. Digging what you are doing here btw :)

Hi there, since the graziano transmission seems quite popular then maybe someone out there knows more than me about the r-tronic unit that audi uses to control it on their automatic/paddle versions of the r8? the goal here is to control the valves and take input from the sensors from the...

That is the same i use in my build, with the optional anti-sub straps. One of the few approved for street use.

If you can't afford it then you where never intended as a buyer in the first place ;) (not saying i could either)

Ok, i will check dimensions tonight and get back to you. Hardened glass or laminated is the demand from Swedish IVA, does not need to be e-marked.

Do you have any dimensions for me to check if it would fit my replica? I would also like to know the pricing of course, shipping to Sweden.

All the ones online seems to be from the same source, since they are all incorrect in the same ways :) I have atleast yet to find an accurate body model.

I would be interested if priced more right. I can buy new ones from RCR for 235$, that is almost half your asking price. And RCR aren't known for being cheap, so i would guess other manufacturers are below that.

Teroson MS9220, it will never really go "hard", only on the surface. It is made to withstand corrosion, salts etc. It is there to seal, and glue, but never get hard and wither. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/cn/en/product/flexible-sealants/teroson_ms_9220.html

I used teroson's chassi glue and riveted the panels. It is a common used method

Bumping this thread since i am about to plan the plumbing of heater hoses/pipes. I want to make sure the circuit actually works, but i don't want another pump to force it. What is my best bet then? (I run a electrical main circulation pump and no thermostat) Should i weld in an angled connector...

All relays are bought with internal diodes to quench that spike. I know my electronics, so no problems there, just wasn't able to find a suitable switch for the last function needed for my instrument panel.

The amps isn't important in my case. All switches are either low current signals or triggers relays.

Thanks Mike, found what i was looking for. Switch 206-7002 (mom-off-mom) and lever atleast looks like lucas type

Would it be possible to modify an on-off-on lucas switch with springs?