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I think i have some numbers from Malmberg also. Might be worth to have a look at the speedlab corvette build also, i seem to recall that they did some testing on that chassis.

Long time since i did some FEA work and never tried this approach; Are you able to determine the required torque to twist the chassis 1 degree? Leave one of the springmounts floating, ground one and constrain the last two against vertical movement.

Depends what you are after. Probably easier to build the cable shifter but it will never give you the same feel as you will get with the linkage shifter.

But what about those who want to build a spaceframe and not a monocoque? Shouldn't they alse have access to some prints as a start?

I have all these spaceframe drawings which have been floating around here and there. Should I upload them to grabcad? I saw some snitch trying to sell them on ebay aswell.

I would probably use something in the 5000 series. It will then have decent mechanical properties and still retaining the ductility in case of deformation. 6 or 7000 series starts to become more brittle and prone to cracking in my experience

Problem is what is correct and what is not, makes little sense to make a good model of a 5th copy replica body. I have a decent body model with the 68 lemans width (2" pr side?)

I think you can buy all this data at the bremar scan store. Not expensive

The x40 prints are on the Lola numbering scheme, uncertain if it is gt40 prototype or gt6 origin. XL i am pretty sure are road car bits. If someone knows anything about the prefix it would be interesting to know.

I have a transmission for sale if anyone is interested (i have also offered it to the OP). I have a box out of a R8, originally a r tronic but i have removed the hydraulics so one have to make the linkage for the twist and pull/push action on the shaft. I am asking 2800 usd with todays...

I suspect that they where made on free hand, maybe some simple jigs to fix certain points or profiles.

Check your email

Glad to see that you are still alive and kicking but sad if you are serious about the above.

The community would really appreciate if it could be made public. Atleast i would be...

The resin print looks good. Maybe with some fine adjustments to the model and printer settings it will turn out good enough straight out of the printer? The cost of making these in a resin printer is quite low, as confirmed by the price you paid to the online service.

I think it should be possible to 3d print this piece in the quality required with a sla 3d printer

I just wish the currency in norway did not drop to the same level as monopoly money...

I have also had good success by importing the scans into autocad or a similar cad software and then scaling according to the grid or a dimension. Then you can measure the rest.

If you draw everything that is available in cad that plate is basically a matter of filling in a hole

Maybe some clear epoxy would do?