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2006 passat rear caliper has an electric actuator, make a mount with a 1/4 steel plate. You can control it with an Arduino and a Pololu shield. You can even pipe in speed over canbus so the parking brake knows your velocity and can slowly clamp down creating an e-brake from an electric parking...

YMMV, but I have always found southern states very accommodating for this type of thing. I would just drive it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4164694

If you plan to do the paint and body on your car yourself make sure you have room to build a small (could be temporary) shop for all of the sanding. It's a nightmare trying to get your primary shop clean if you every do body work in. Decades later you will still be trying to get the body...

Indeed I did mean PolyStyrene (the pink stuff at the hardware store). I have tested it on a small piece, I’ve not done anything large yet to determine how difficult it is to get a good seal on a big surface.

You can use polyurethane foam because it is much cheaper, and then coat it with latex interior paint before you put the fiberglass on it, that will prevent the melting.

What material did you print the light housing in? I’ve had some PLA+ parts warp in the Texas sun, so I’m going back and reprinting everything in ASA.

The R1 lights are great options, I’m putting them in my 818.

I think lights are one of the biggest drawbacks to almost every kit/component car available, they always make the car look slapped together instead of polished and clean. Taking the time to add in OEM lights always takes the build to another level, and your's look fantastic. Now to figure out...

to avoid inspection you have to be registered as an antique vehicle, not sure how to pass an SLC off as 26 years old.

^^^^^^^ Exactly. And if you can figure it out, solid mechanical linkage is impervious to heat. There are several examples over on the FFR818 forum of how to get mechanical linkage built.

Is that Deep Impact Blue?

I've bought sheets of plastic mirror on Amazon before. Cut them with a dremel and some water running to keep them cool.

Manuals are pretty light with superlite. Best bet is to search through build threads.

A used oven from Craigslist is $25 and very useful for curing different coatings and baking out contaminants.

I’ve done the get it running quick and come back later project, and I would advise you to reconsider. It is much more enjoyable, cost efficient, and easier, to take it slow and do it like you want it the first time.

Mid engine cars can be very difficult to bleed, I fought overheating for months on my FFR818. If you are struggling with overheating even when moving, then this is the most likely issue and where you should place your focus. If you only have overheating issues when sitting still, focus on fans...

Increasing the flow rate will increase the Reynolds number, therefore making the heat transfer more efficient and allowing the same amount of air to carry away more heat. Obviously more air is better than a higher Reynolds number, but the flow rate does help.

I contemplated adding an EWP to mine, ensuring it was located at a low point in the system, to help with priming and getting the air out. I don’t see a downside to having one if you have the space.

Any decent 2K clear that you would put over base should be fine over the epoxy for UV protection.