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Hi Alan, The neoprene was 1/8" and rigid enough to stay in place securely without adhesive. It worked very well, keeping rocks and debris out, but eventually wore through from the repeated flexing. Like you, I only drive when I can be confident it will be dry for the duration, so don't know...

Hi JP, Which doorseals are those?

On the RCR40 - Has anyone come up with a good method for sealing out road debris from the gap at the door hinge? I was ending up with a lot of gravel and dirt flying in so ended up cutting out this shape from a 1/8" thick piece of neoprene rubber that filled the entire gap including the bit at...

Thanks, Brian! That definitely would be the easiest fix. Even messing with the motor mount bolts is a nightmare in terms of access. And I definitely don't want to have to take each header tube off again -- it was near impossible getting them to fit into the collectors the first time! I'll give...

Shim up the motor mounts but leave the transaxle mounted as-is?

Good thinking and thanks for the quick response, Walter! I'm not concerned at all about heat, but rather wearing that could rub a hole through the thin-walled exhaust. But then again, I can't tell if there's any movement at all back there. It is rigid as hell when I try to move it while cold...

So my exhaust headers just barely clear the crossmember. In fact, one of them is ever so lightly resting on it and the other has a tiny clearance (maybe 1/32"). You can see in the pix that the part that is interfering is the "thinner" diameter and where the collector slips over the header tubes...

Thanks, Michael! The heater control valve was not opening at first and that was traced to a bad rheostat in the Vintage Air control panel. After replacing it, the valve would function collectively correctly, but still no heat. It seems the design I came up with was just no good. Rerouted it all...

Thanks, Brian. I had seen this tool on Amazon but didn’t know if it worked well or reliably. Worth giving it a try at this point. Thanks, Brian. I had seen this tool on Amazon but didn’t know if it worked well or reliably. May be worth giving it a try at this point.

I believe the machine removes whatever was in there since it starts by drawing a vacuum then doing a 60 second gross leak test before slowly adding back the 1.8 pounds. Are you using a vintage air system and running it with just 1.1 pounds?

One more thing: I have regrettably installed the service ports right at the compressor, which requires the car to be raised up in the air to service the AC and also for the belt tensioner to be removed so the compressor can be swung out of the way to hook up the hoses. I’d like to add a second...

Anyone using the Vintage Air Mini Gen II? Mine has been giving me fits and I’m just about to give up on it. System is installed as per instructions and all fitting crimps except the two connecting the compressor to the high side and low side were done professionally using a massive hydraulic...

Great feedback -- very helpful! Will try to stuff a 5/8 aluminum tube through what little room is left in the spine and move my temp sender into the T-stat bypass line. Thanks everyone for the great advice! I'll be using aluminum tubing that comes in a big coil and when I cut it to length the...

OK, I can see now that the fat red circle is around an intake manifold mounting bolt. The hole that Brian is talking about (just above and left of the red circle) seems to be the one I'm using for the coolant temp sensor. If I swap that for the heater supply, is there somewhere else I can take...

So before I go tapping into the wrong place on the intake manifold, I took these two photos to clarify which port i should connect to the inlet side of the heater core. I'm thinking Brian is talking about the one I have circled in red in the closeup photo of the water neck/thermostat housing...

Ken - One more thing that just occurred to me. The way you have drawn the "Y-fitting" makes sense because there is that "scoop" portion that channels the flow into the smaller pipe. I believe the ones that exist simply have the Y-splitting off in the same manner as the T-fitting I am currently...

Thank you, Ken! I can't seem to find a fitting like the one you described -- it needs to have 1.5" diameter on the "fat" ends and 5/8 for the skinny pipe. The only one I can find that's 1.5" has a 1" Y-pipe. Know of a good source for these fittings that may offer a better selection than what I...

Thanks, L! Very helpful. Chris Kouba took a look at the car last weekend and I believe suggested something similar. To be clear, for option #1, are you talking about running a line all the way from the engine to the bulkhead fitting in front that leads INTO the heater core and leaving the...

Anyone out there using this layout for their heater hose routing? I've got a T-fitting in the coolant line coming into the radiator (right side of the picture) going into the heater core, then back out into another T-fitting that joins the flow out of the radiator and back to the water pump...

Thanks, Randy!